Ok here's the deal. I haven't had much time to get to the problem but I ready to rip out the door bell with my bare hands! I can't remember how or what could have cause the proble to start. I blew the ign circut on my '84 TA. When it want I lost half the instrument cluster, namly: voltage, tach, rear deforst, and the gas guage is now kinda screwy. The Check engine light never comes on but the choke is always on. When the parking lights are on the door chime can begin. (That is really tempermental, again don't know why :confused If the door chime is ringing it will stop when the break pedal is pressed only to begin when I let it go. I tried to replace the fuse... pop! If I start the car, hold the break... nothing, everything is right with the world, check engine lights up like it's supposed to, engine runs good, volts good, tach back! but let go of the break, pop!

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This is strange. I just had the ECM/IGN fuse blowing on my 84 Z28 and that always put the Check Engine light on because you lose power to the ECM. Are you sure your Check engine light isn't burned out?

With that fuse blowing, the following things could cause it: (I'm assuming the wiring in the TA & Z28 are similar)

Mixture Control Solenoid
Throttle Position Sensor
Air Select valve
Air Diverter valve
EGR Solenoid
O2 Sensor
Coolant Temp Sensor

In my case, the AIR valve ended up resting against the manifold due to V-belt to serpentine belt swap. This melted the connector and shorted the electrical connection on the exhaust manifold.

That might help with the Fuse blowing although it seriously seems like you have one or more other shorts due to the various problems you're experiencing.

Look at anything you've touched recently. After that, do a DETAILED inspection of all the electrical connections in the engine bay.

You may want to invest in a Helm service manual just for the detailed wiring diagrams.

Hope this helps and good luck.

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Randy
84 Trans AM LG4, 700R4 T-tops
84 Z28 L69, 5 Spd, T-tops
"Don't sweat the petty things...Just pet the sweaty things"


[This message has been edited by Wolfcoast (edited February 09, 2001).]

 

There are two main wiring harnesses coming from the dash area of your car. #1 comes from the fusebox and powers accessories like you have described. #2 comes from the ECM and controls/monitors engine management. The only good news is that it looks like #2 is ok.
Best bet is to start trouble shooting from the battery and fusable links coming from the battery or starter post. The next step is to troubleshoot from the fuse panel.
You are right in that there is a short to ground somewhere along this #1 harness. Disconnecting the fusable links and then testing to see if the fuse blows will narrow down the amount of wires.
Pulling the fuses and testing for shorts to ground from the fuse-sockets will narrow it down to the particular circuit.
Another method is to disconnect electrical features from the circuit to try and eliminate a faulty component or section of wire.
For example: if you disconnect the harness going to your ignition switch and the short disappears, you have found the faulty component.
If you unhook the defrost wires going to your rear window and the short disappears... you get the idea.
Don't forget the harness that plugs to the shifter for automatics.
Also double check your choke wire going to the carb.

I wish you lots of luck on this one. If all else fails you may consider getting a replacement fusepanel & #1 harness.

ODB


[This message has been edited by The ODB (edited February 10, 2001).]

 

I know that the Chech engine light is good because when I put a new fuse in the block and start the car with the break in the light comes on when I turn the key to igniton and it lights to show that it is in good working order. The thing is that it dosen't stay on so their isn't anything that the computer is picking up.


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Ok, the bulb is good. That helps.
Now, if the ECM/IGN fuse is the one blowing, then the Check engine light should be lit because the ECM is no longer getting power and you're in limp home mode.
If it doesn't stay on, then the ECM is getting it's power from somewhere else that it shouldn't.

Does the fuse blow anymore or did it just do it that one time?

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Randy
84 Trans AM LG4, 700R4 T-tops
84 Z28 L69, 5 Spd, T-tops
"Don't sweat the petty things...Just pet the sweaty things"

 

The fuse will blow as soon as the breaks are let out. At the same time the fuse goes, the choke light comes on and the door chime goes on (whenever it wants to!) If I start the car with a fresh fuse without my foot on the break, the fuse blows as soon as the key hits the start position, therefore there is no check engine light. So I know that the ECM is getting no + power. How could the breaks stop the short? Where do they cross into the desplay that they could play such a role into this mystery?

 

well there is two switches on the brake pedal. One to activate the brake lights and one tells the ECM to unlock the torque converter.. more or less.

By chance would you have any stray car-stereo wires down there by the brake pedal arm?

good luck
ODB

 

How does the ECM unlock the converter if it's not getting the power? And if what you say is right what do you know about tranys? (see Tranmissions and Drivetrains - What Died!?! (Kinda long) Sorry) How would a stray radio wire interfear with these swiches? Thanks for the extra input about the ECM!

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You put Mt. Dew in the gas tank!!!