what will an MSD 6al box do for a 355 with mods
what will an MSD 6al box do for a 355 with mods
im gettin the 6al box, MSD distributor and blaster 2 coil what will this actually do for the performance and just the way it runs
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mean 355 83 Z28:
im gettin the 6al box, MSD distributor and blaster 2 coil what will this actually do for the performance and just the way it runs</font>
im gettin the 6al box, MSD distributor and blaster 2 coil what will this actually do for the performance and just the way it runs</font>
unless you had a misfiring problem before.
I put the Crane Hi-6 ignition and an accel supercoil on my car. After doing that, the car seemed to rev a little quicker, start a little easier, and I got 2 more mpg.
------------------
82 Camaro:
350, Erson cam, ported heads, Crane Hi-6 ignition, Accel supercoil, Comp Cams 1.6:1 rocker arms, Turbo 350 tranny with 2500 stall.
------------------
82 Camaro:
350, Erson cam, ported heads, Crane Hi-6 ignition, Accel supercoil, Comp Cams 1.6:1 rocker arms, Turbo 350 tranny with 2500 stall.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by The ODB:
nothing,
unless you had a misfiring problem before.
</font>
nothing,
unless you had a misfiring problem before.
</font>
When I put my regular MSD6A box on I felt a nice difference. I don't know about 1/4 performance, but parth throtle response is MUUUCH better.
yes I have had MSD equipment on both my camaro and mustang for many years and I like it. However, my cars were tuned properly and without misfires before the ignition swap and my testing was done with a vericom2000 and not by 'feel'.
Bolting on an MSD box will not normally add any power to a street engine that is already firing well. That's why I say don't expect any instant horsepower gain.
Many people do the old swap 10,000 mile old sparkplugs for brand new splitfires and feel a difference making them believe the spitfires add power. That's not a very fair test you think?
I have given splitfire plugs more than fair tests and have concluded that they are complete junk.
I don't feel that it's wrong to list any of my test findings on here, and furthermore invite everyone to do their own strict testing to be sure for themselves.
I am very particular about my testing and use a Davis weather computer to measure air density at the time of the tests. I don't feel that bolting on an MSD and 'feeling' a difference & then running a little faster at the track the next week constitutes a good test.
I'm not saying joe shmo can't bolt on an MSD box and make more power than before the box. Hope you understand where I'm coming from now.
ODB
Bolting on an MSD box will not normally add any power to a street engine that is already firing well. That's why I say don't expect any instant horsepower gain.
Many people do the old swap 10,000 mile old sparkplugs for brand new splitfires and feel a difference making them believe the spitfires add power. That's not a very fair test you think?
I have given splitfire plugs more than fair tests and have concluded that they are complete junk.
I don't feel that it's wrong to list any of my test findings on here, and furthermore invite everyone to do their own strict testing to be sure for themselves.
I am very particular about my testing and use a Davis weather computer to measure air density at the time of the tests. I don't feel that bolting on an MSD and 'feeling' a difference & then running a little faster at the track the next week constitutes a good test.
I'm not saying joe shmo can't bolt on an MSD box and make more power than before the box. Hope you understand where I'm coming from now.
ODB
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,950
Likes: 26
From: Orange, SoCal
Car: 1990 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
I feel the same as ODB. I even tried an MSD 6A and MSD coil on my car, at a 2900' track, but I noticed no difference in ET or MPH after swapping back to stock. There are better mods you can spend your $200 on. I'd say you only need these units if youre running nitrous/blower, or are running your car above 4000 RPMs constantly, like on a road course.
------------------
West Coast GM Shootout 2001!
1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
13.25 @ 107.18 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Webmaster: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-
------------------
West Coast GM Shootout 2001!
1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
13.25 @ 107.18 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Webmaster: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 2
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '92 Z28; Dk Teal; Her Pkg
Engine: 305
Transmission: Richmond 6 Spd
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", Detroit Locker, 3.70
An quality aftermarket ignition system will make a difference beyond approx 4500 rpm, where the output of the stock ignition module & coil start to drop off. Also, if forced induction or nitrous oxide are used, an aftermarket ignition system is mandatory, since more energy is required to jump a spark in the denser a/f mixture in the combustion chamber. Two systems I have tried & have worked well while using nitrous oxide are the MSD-6AL system, and the Jacobs Pro Street system. The Jacobs system is a bit more sophistocated in that it uses a microcontroller to measure the energy requirement needed for each individual cylinder, and dynamically adjusts the energy output accordingly for each cylinder.
Tim
Tim
I wouldn't say it's mandatory at all. In the old days there were many 302's & 327's pulling 8000+ RPMs with stock ignition.
They had several solutions to prevent misfires.
One was to simply run very tight gaps with non-resistor plugs along with solid core wires.
Another one was to have a switch to connect two batteries in series at full throttle feeding the ignition with 24 volts.
This was all before Jacobs or MSD. The old ways still work, so never say never.
As far as sophistication goes the factory ignitions that come on the GM LS1 engines is by far the best yet. It's design was pioneered and sold to GM by these guys.
http://www.electromotive-inc.com/home.htm
They had several solutions to prevent misfires.
One was to simply run very tight gaps with non-resistor plugs along with solid core wires.
Another one was to have a switch to connect two batteries in series at full throttle feeding the ignition with 24 volts.
This was all before Jacobs or MSD. The old ways still work, so never say never.
As far as sophistication goes the factory ignitions that come on the GM LS1 engines is by far the best yet. It's design was pioneered and sold to GM by these guys.
http://www.electromotive-inc.com/home.htm
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