First off here is a link

http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?...=28419&BQ=jcw2

I am thinking of purchasing this as my stereo is pulling too much for my alternator to deal with. How hard is it to install. I have never rebuilt an alternator, but I have rebuilt electric motors in RC cars and such. Does anybody have this, any comments on it?
Thanks

 

I put one in my IROC about two years ago, no problems yet. As for the install you will have to resolder three wires, they have to be soldered. As long as you have a soldering gun and a little flux( for a clean surface) it will be a snap, the rest is just basic remove and replace parts. good luck

cody

 

cool, thanks. i can solder easily that is no problem.
thanks

 

Anybody else have any experience with this kit?

 

I have done a number of them Brody. I cannot emphasize this enough. Read instructions COMPLETELY before starting the rebuild. If you are going to replace the front bearing getting the pulley off can be difficult for a shadetree. Most cases you will need an impact driver. Second probably is case separation, I reversed the case fasteners and used large nuts as spacers and then evenly tightened to SLOWLY separate the case halves. You will see what I mean when you start. When you look at the price of an OE rebuild once you do one after that it's a piece of cake. LOL

 

Do you have a capacitor? If you don't, I suggest you put one in. What are the specs of your stereo. Check out the Car Audio board for more info on your problem.

 

The rebuild is a snap --the second time :-) What I mean is read the instructions and pay close attention. When you rebuild your alternator, there will be some pieces that can go in wrong. Before you know it, you'll have the stator soldered up and then you realize you forgot to put the grease goop on the bottom of the rectifier. Oops...undsolder. See what I mean? Also, be careful and tighten the housing evenly so the bearings seat properly. Also, be careful when removing the screws out of the aluminum housing. When you break them loose for the first time, the long, thin bolts can snap very easily. They are nearly impossible to remove once this happens- the housing is trash. Good luck to you. I really only recommend doing this if you're a serious stereo guy with amps that require a lot of current. Otherwise, stick with the stock - more powerful alternator will rob your valuable horsepower! :-)

 

i have two 10s that each get 220 watts RMS. although i dont think that is my problem now. with the headlights, electric fan, and stereo off i will have 13-14 volts. when i turn my headlights on it goes down to about 11 and when i turn the headlights and electric fan it goes way down. with just the stereo it will go way down (10 volts or less) also. so i think the alternator is charging. i had it tested and it tested ok, so i went and got a new battery(warrenty) and the problem is still happening. i have no problem starting the car, but i used tobe able to have the stereo, electric fan, and headlights on all at the same time and still have 13+ volts. would this kit fix my alternator? i think i might just get a new one, since this one is under warrenty i think.

 

Ok. I put a new remanufactured(i know, i know) AC Delco alternator on it, I still have some problems. At idle w/o anything major on(i.e. headlights, fan, stereo) it will stay at 14 volts. With the headlights and electric fan. It stays at about 12.5 volts. With just the stereo the volts go very low, depending on volume. With both the battery and alternator being good, and all wiring being good, I have come to the realization that stock alternators cant keep up with what I am pulling off the battery. Please keep in mind that my electric fan is wired solely to a manual switch, in a relayless system. So should I buy the alternator kit and rebuild my alternator so that it would put out 140 amps, or should i keep the alternator the same and get a capacitor. In the ideal situation I would buy both, but due to $$$, I need to buy just the one that will be better for me. I am leaning towards the alternator kit.
All help appreciated.

 

A 140 amp unit will put out LESS at idle. The higher the alternators output the less it will deliver at speed in the idle area. All the TG's with accessories running will run off the battery at idle rpm. It is not really an issue unless you spend most of your time idleing. The cheapest way to change the charging curve is to get a smaller drive pulley for the alt. It's cheap and it will raise the speed of the alt at idle to keep up with demand. I am not sure what the one guy meant by a capacitor, as they are generally used to reduce alt whine or noise in the system.

 

capacitors store energy and release when the amp pulls hard. i think i am gonna go with a smaller pulley. then if needed get a 140 amp alternator and keep the smaller pulley. where do i go for the pulley, any auto parts store?

 

Steal a pulley off of a junk ford alternator. They're smaller and have one extra rib, but it will still work fine. Parts store probably wont let you take one off of their cores so you'll have to get it at a swap meet or something.

 

I know what cap's do, work with them every day. They won't help with the kind of current you are talking about. Go to www.alternatorparts.com, they have undersized pulleys at very reasonable prices. Capacitors are generally used to filter power supplies or remove noise from alternators, not as a replacement for not having sufficient DC current. For a capacitor to store enough current to handle the draw in an absence of DC supply you would need one the size of a trash can and it would not last very long. You cars battery is one of the best capacitors one can have.

 

He's not talking about run of the mill capacitors; he means those big ol' caps made just for high amperage stereo systems. Similar to this:

 

Ok, I think I am going to get ready to purchase the 140 amp alternator kit and a smaller pulley. What size pulley should I get, the site listed above sells 2" and 1 7/8" pulleys, compared to my stock 2.5" pulley? What would be best with that alternator kit?

 

Up to you. How much kick do you want at low rpm. Remember with a 140 you will have less than you do now. You might want to go with the smaller of the two with an alternator upgrade. To the other response about the cap, yeah I got em. Looks like a 20,000 mfd. or so electrolytic. We use them in high current power supplies to run transmitters for communications equipment. The purpose of a large electrolytic in a 12 auto system with these high power amps is this. With a high power amp the current changes with operation of the audio output transistors as they cycle back and forth and drive is increased as in the case with music. During periods of high demand the voltage will drop as current rises. You normally won't see it with a voltmeter, but it is pretty evident with a scope. The electrolytic provides a smoothing effect by supplying current when peak power occurs. It will also help to reduce spiking on the 12 volt line from the output devices in the amp.

 

Thanks, and just to make sure, I will still be okay when cruising down the freeway with the headlights, stereo, and electric fan all off. Right now i have 13+ in that situtation its just when the load starts being applied.
Thanks

 

I THINK I FOUND MY PROBLEM

the wire that goes from the battery to the amp got burned by the headers. it was cooked onto the header. i am getting ready to cut the burned part out and solder the wire back together. i am pretty sure this is the problem i am having.
thanks everybody for the help though

 

nevermind, it didnt solve my problem

 

You can try PowerMaster alternators. They have a 200 amp one I think.

 

Hi!
look too on http://www.alternatorparts.com/
I bought new 140 Iceberg alternator and rebuild
one stock delco - it is very good idea
pozdrawiam