Somehow I have continuity between my frame and my positive battery cable. With the ground strap between the engine and firewall off, the block is no longer hot. Removing the grounds for the headlights, I found they were hot also, but even with them disconnected the frame was still hot. I have been pulling fuses, relays, grounds, anything I can to isolate it. looking at the fog lamp relay connector, I have continuity back to positive on all 4 wires with the switch on and on 3 wires with the switch off. It seems like atleast one of these should be ground. (but then maybe its gounded to the frame and thats why it is hot). But I have yet to locate a source? Any ideas

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I performed an injector swap, installed a new starter and gave the car a tune up (plugs, wires, rotor, cap), new fan motors (one was burned out, the other had blown the fusible link, I replaced it with a 20 amp fuse).

 

make sure the battery is still the correct polarity, I have seen batterys change polarity, use a digital volt meter and hook it up corretly to the battery(red wire to positve terminal, black to negative)it should read 12 (+/- .5v) NOT -12, if it reads -12, you need a battery

 

If your transmission has ever been removed, it is also possible that a wire was pinched between the block and bellhousing when it was re-installed. You should, however, be blowing fuses and/or fusible links though.

 

Last post is correct. If what you are saying is correct every time the battery is hooked up you should be popping fuses or a link. A clue may be the link you replaced. How many ohms of resistance are you talking about. You mentioned the starter. Good place to look for a cooked wire etc. As far as the battery, it is not uncommon for a Ni-Cad type to reverse polarity but I have never seen a lead-acid do it.

 

I have as many fuses and connectors that I can find in the engine compartment disconnected. I have also isolated the block from the frame, the frame is still hot however. Then I disconnected the c100 connector in the firewall. The frame then went cold, thus the issue is not in the engine compartment. So I started disconnecting connectors uder the dash and nothing worked. I had previously removed all of the fuses and relays under the dash and that didn't do it. I started to look for the c200 and c205 (or is it c203) grounds that are supposed to be behind the dash, but I couldn't find them. I have heard that there will be some continuity between the frame and the positive wire from the battery becuase of circuits that are either open or closed. I am using a continuity test light becuase my ohm meter is digital and it jumps around so much I can't get a good reading. What would be a high resistance that says it is safe??