Electronics Need help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?

Hatch motor power

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Old Jun 17, 2001 | 12:51 PM
  #1  
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Hatch motor power

I finally got most of my interior together. I installed the power hatch motor w/works-but it won't pop from the button, it definitely has pwr to it-pulls hatch down nice and tight-is there supposed to be a hot lead going into the pwr switch that's in the dash? If so which colr wire is it? I haven't checked it yet because I don't have time to pull the bezel right now--if it does have power at the switch any ither ideas? Duffster??
Thanks guys!
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Old Jun 17, 2001 | 02:47 PM
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From: plymouth Mi US
does it work with the key? If so try the fuse
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Old Jun 17, 2001 | 04:09 PM
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Definitely doesn't work w/the key on either.
Is it a dedicated fuse(by itself)or is there other things on it? Like pwr windows, locks etc?
Thanks.
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Old Jun 18, 2001 | 09:19 AM
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Anybody??
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Old Jun 18, 2001 | 10:02 AM
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From: MERIDIAN MS NEWTON
if it's factory pull your emergency brake then push the button there is a safty switch just a thought.
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Old Jun 18, 2001 | 10:39 AM
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Hey I'll try anything! although I've had 3 cars w/the pwr hatch and none of them worked like that.
Does anyone know which is the hot wire on the switch? worst case I'll just hot wire it myself.
Thanks.
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Old Jun 18, 2001 | 02:18 PM
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From: MERIDIAN MS NEWTON
Hey I have three right now and they wont work without pulling the emergency brake. thats factory. when you push the button to open the trunk the dash brake light should come to let you know to pull the brake, no joke
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Old Jun 18, 2001 | 03:47 PM
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Hmm-I always wondered why it did that!!
On my 89 I guess I had it bypassed w/o even knowing it! Well I tried it and it didn't work. Even the rear defrost doesn't come on, so i'm wondering how that ties into each other--anybody have a clue?
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Old Jun 19, 2001 | 02:10 AM
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on my 91 z I don't have to have the e-brake on to pop the trunk.
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Old Jun 22, 2001 | 02:29 PM
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From: WORLD WIDE
Tony,
Yes, you should have a hot-lead in the switch and when operated, should activate a relay which then energizes the hatch solenoid to release the hatch. Colors...can't help you much there, but would guess orange for the hot-lead.
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Old Jun 23, 2001 | 11:40 PM
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OK, I guess I'll start poking around w/a hot lead to the switch.
Thanks!
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Old Jun 24, 2001 | 01:40 AM
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Just curious but is there a differance between a pwr hatch motor that has a release button on it then one that doesn't have a release button? If there is that might be my problem--car I pulled it from didn't have the release button.
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Old Jun 25, 2001 | 09:33 PM
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Didn't do any good w/that hot lead--there already was a hot wire to it. where would the hatch relay be? I think it's somewhere under the pass side--what color is it? Found a white one(small)and a big black one that says ac on it--seemed like both were clicking when I was pushing the button.
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Old Jun 25, 2001 | 10:38 PM
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Try your connections. I worked on one that drove me nuts until I cleaned the connectors. Also the there are limit switches that biult in that tells the motor how to go. See if the adjust are right and the switches are good.
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Old Jun 25, 2001 | 10:45 PM
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i made sure all that stuff was good-it is-pulled it down no problem--there just isn't anything going to(or from) the switch or relay. that's where I'm stuck-plus-the trunk lock is punched out so I can't even open it that way!
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Old Jun 26, 2001 | 08:24 AM
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From: MERIDIAN MS NEWTON
well if it is pulling down its working that way. unlatching is the problem... if you open your hatch and you use your finger to push the black button where the latch is it should go down and when you let it go it should come up, if it is doing that then it is between the switch and the release, is the button any good? if so jump the two wires on the trunk latch release to see if it acuates the release at the latch, if it does not then there is a break in the wire or the release is bad.
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Old Jun 26, 2001 | 09:46 AM
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Ok when you say jump the wires-which ones? I jumped a brown w/white stripes and a black I think-that's how it was setup before and it worked great-til the conversion--I have a spare switch so I'll try that route.
I can't even open the hatch to push down on it-I have to squeeze back there and unbolt it. Good thing I dropped the panel back there. But before I closed the hatch the motor worked beautifully!
Did I jump the right wires? I'm only getting power from the brown wire when I hit the release button--should it be hot at all times?
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Old Jun 26, 2001 | 01:24 PM
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From: MERIDIAN MS NEWTON
I don't have a brown wire going to mine i have a black wire that plugs into the actuater which when you pull the emergency brake and push the trunk button the wire turns hot to actuate the release because the release is already grounded so if you take a hot wire and touch the wire going into the actuater it should react if not it's no good.
thats what i mean by tapping into the wires.
hot to the wire going to the actuator or have someone push the button wile you put a test light to the plug end of the actuator.with a ground the light should light up if it does... bad news, the actuator is bad if not the swich or wire is bad or the safety switch on your emergence brake is bad.

[This message has been edited by MAXGTA2002 (edited June 26, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by MAXGTA2002 (edited June 26, 2001).]
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Old Jun 26, 2001 | 01:45 PM
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OK when you say actuator--do you mean on the motor itself? If not where would it be? So far I've just been messing w/the release switch. Yesterday when I was looking at the switch one wire was ground but when I hit the release button it turned hot-good sign? There's supposed to be a wire under the center console for the parking brake--I haven't plugged it in yet because I was unsure which one it was(another brown wire?)
Would that have an affect on it not releasing too?
Also does it make a differance in motors if the car didn't have a release button(donor)and the one that it's in now does?
Thanks for all the help!!
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