I have a 91 Z28 TPI 305 700-R4, Now the problem is when the battery is disconnected for some reason (on purpose) I will reconnect it and the car will not crank. The starter solenoid will rapidly move the starter gear back and forth but will not turn. It has done it with 2 different starters so I know that the starter is not the culprit. It doesn't do it everytime however. After spending countless hours trying to hunt it down I can turn up nothing. When I disconnect and reconnect the terminal again to look for a problem, the car will mysteriously start, even if I didn't do anything but disconnect and reconnect the cable. The terminals are clean and the battery is good. I think that it has something to do with the ECM. If you could shed any light on the problem I would greatly appreciate it.

 

youve probably already done it but check the grounds my car did it and i cleaned all the connnections to the starter and all the grounds and it stopped

 

If it clicks back and forth rapidly, then the starter isn't getting enough juice. Mine does it after a couple of days w/o running. If I jumper it, it starts right up.

 

Its not the ECM. You can completely remove the ECM from the car and it should still turn over normally. If the starter gear is moving back and forth, then the ignition cylinder is doing its job of sending the low current voltage to the solenoid. If its not a problem with the battery or the power and ground connections, it must be in the starter/solenoid. When you tried the two different starters, was it also two different solenoids or did you put the old solenoid on the new starter?

 

I used 2 different solenoids. When I pulled the ECM fuse it wouldn't even engage the starter gear. I know the solenoid is good because I removed the whole starter and tested it to be sure. I am driving the car now with no problems what so ever. It just did it when the battery was reconnected.

 

If the vehicle has a VATS system it will NOT crank with the ECM disconnected because the starter solenoid relay will not have 12 volts. Anti-theft models use an extra relay before the starter solenoid.

 

MY CAR HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM.. I HAD TO USE SHIMS TO GET THE RIGHT SPACING BETWEEN THE STARTE PINION AND THE FLYWHEEL

 

I know it is not the shims because when it does finally start it cranks fine. I also have a high torque mini starter and I can pull the starter gear out by hand and was able to check the alignment with the flywheel. everything is good there.

 

TRY THE CABLE THAT GOES FROM THE BATTERY TO THE STARTER,IT MIGHT BE CORRODED IN THE INSIDE AND LOOK FINE OUTSIDE,SO IT MIGHT NOT BE GETTING ENOUGH JUICE,YOU KNOW WHEN YOUR BATTERY IS ALMOST DEAD AND YOU TRY CRANKING YOUR CAR....IT DOES THAT SAME CLICK...IT PROBABLY AINT GETTING ENOUGH JUICE SOMEWHERE...SORRY IF I WASNT MUCH HELP

 

I think I am just going to replace all the battery power cables. It is possible that there is corrosion in them. I like my engine compartment clean and I wash it pretty often.

 

Do you have a VATS. It could be the problem

 

Perhaps the battery cables weren't in tight enough. Don't laugh, it happened to me, once. For whatever reason, the lights and everything would come on in the ACC position, but trying to start the car would produce nothing. Just a thought

 

Yeah I have VATS, Is this problem some how associated with it?

 

Hey CaysE I have done that too. I felt like the biggest idiot after spending hours looking for something when come to find out it is just a loose battery cable. I know it isn't the problem in this case. It only does it when the power is hooked back up, and it doesn't matter how many different ways you hook it up. I have unhooked it and hooked it back up probably 20 times and just out of the blue it will decide to crank. Once it cranks that first time you won't have any problems until you unhook the battery again.

 

I would bet money on it. Sounds like the VATS module is slow coming up. I read somewhere about something to do with VATS causing a problem that takes 15 minutes to clear. If I remember correctly it had to do with trying to start the car without the correct pellet code. Translation- if you try to hotwire it or use an incorrect code key it will not start even with the right key for 15 min. I tried mine, it doesn't work that way. I have the brass non-pellet key they give you with a new lock cyl and tried to start her. Immediately tried the right key and it kicked right over. I do not know if any changes were made in later years. Regardless, I think the problem is in fact with the anti-theft system. The VATS module is pretty pricey, maybe you should live with it for the time being and just leave the battery hooked up. I'll try to do a little more looking into this, Dan

 

Dan, Thanks for your help. What your saying makes a lot of sense! I would put my money on the VATS being the problem. I can live with it if it is that expensive. It just one of those things that can be a pain while you working on it. When it acts up and doesn't crank the solenoid on the starter is moving the starter gear so fast (clicking) that there is no way it could be a lack of voltage. That is why I thought it was ECM related. Again thanks for all your help! -Jon-

 

I stand corrected, I forgot the part about the solenoid cycling -If you get any action at all from the starter solenoid it is NOT anti-theft related. I would get a voltmeter and start looking for large voltage drops going to the starter. I would have to agree with the other guys, something else is amiss. Gotta lay off that high-octane Comfort. LOL, dan

 

So basically if it was the VATS the starter will not do anything right? No solenoid cycling? So I should go back to those time honored traditions of looking at the power cables huh? Thanks for your idea anyways.

 

jona try changing the cables,the cable that goes to the starter is really long so maybe the starter aint getting enough juice to crank the motor,did you say before if you jump it it will start?..

 

It's not the VATS. If it were a VATS problem you'd get nothing, no click at all. The solenoid isn't getting current. You've got the battery cables and their connections to check. A few local Members have had a problem with the terminal at the solenoid breaking. The connection appeared tight, but the stud had broken inside. The stud would turn freely. After you got it solved, spray the terminals with battery protectant.

Lon

 

ON the VATS it's 3 MINUTES not 15 if it detects any tampering and it will light up on the dash "SECURITY" if it's blocking you. If after 3 minutes it detect tampering again it will make you wait another 3 minutes

 

Hey pontiac I tried jumping it and it would just click faster. It still would not crank.