is there a resisotor that you can plug in some where to make it go into close loop when start up is so wich on is it?

i have a 92 tbi 350 auto

 

Nope

 

Why would you want to?

 

i have all of these problems that i dont know how to fix or what to do and was wondering if my car would run better in close loop when all of the sensors and every thing was working, i cant even get it warmed up enought to get it in to close loop to see.

 

If temprature is a problem you probably have a worn out/weak thermostat,, try changing it to a new 180°. That will start regulating the temp to at least the rating of the stat letting yuor car go into closed loop.

Closed loop isn't much different from open loop with the exception that in closed loop the ECM starts reading the o2 sensor to help it maintain the 14.x:1 ratio for best economy. It also lets the ECM correct (or fine tune) small problems with how the car run, mainly running rich/lean. It won't cure a miss or bad idle or severe problems that are most cause by bad maintenance.

If you get to the point of the car geting temp & it's still running bad, there are more than enough people on this board willing to share their knowledge with you to help. Just be as specific as you can in addressing your problem(s).

 

well that was one reasone why i did want it to go to close loop becasue i am running way tooooo rich and was wondering if the o2 sensor would fix my problem, i am sorry if i made it sound like i was not getting the right temp. I cant even get to close loop infear that it might damage my enigne because of the shaking. i already have a 160 deg thermostat and a fan switch to turn on at a sooner time.
thanks for your reply
danny

 

Shaking engine & running rich,, wouldn't happen to be an LG4 305 would it ?

Personal joke aside,, closed loop occurs around 150°

 

you have that happen? what was wronge??

 

Actually, it still happens. My p.o.s 305 shakes violently from about 800-1200 rmp if not in gear. My assumption w/that is uneven cylinder compression since it has like 2xx,xxx miles on it. Other than that (and some smoke), it runs smoothly thru the rpm range in gear. It runs rich because, well, it's an LG4 engine, that's about all they are good for.

What kind of/year motor is in your car to be running so bad anyways ? The more information you give up about the problems,, the better help you can get.

 

well i have the gm preformance 350 HO 330hp and its brand new. when i start my car it runs for like 5 seconds good than goes bad and starts twitching and kinda runs like the base timing is off and when you try to set the base timeing with the est off i runs even more like crap and no mater where you put it, it will not runs smooth. i have tried many things new distributor, coil, checked tps, checked spark plugs wich were completly black (really rich, checked for codes got 22 one time low tps voltage and checked it and it was .53 and 4.8 WOT wich was good and the code never came back after i reseted it, tried fpr and it either died or ran like crap, tried replaceing fuel line where little nich was in there did not work, tried many things.
Well i have the gm performance 350 HO 330hp and it’s brand new. When i start my car it runs for like 5 seconds good than goes bad and starts twitching and kinda runs like the base timing is off. I have tried many things new distributor, coil, checked tps, checked spark plugs which were completely black (really rich, checked for codes got 22 one time low tps voltage and checked it and it was .53 and 4.8 WOT which was good and the code never came back after i reseted it, tried fpr and it either died or ran like crap, tried replacing fuel line where little nich was in there did not work, tried many things.
Over all i really don’t know what exactly is wrong Njspeeder thought of a idea that it could be the iac which is new so i don’t think so or the enrichment because when i start it at first it runs good and about 5 sec later its bad and he said something like the air/fuel ratio changes for a sec when it starts up so maybe that the air/fuel mixture is good at start up. I know that i need a new computer but the guy who is burning it for me says i have to get it running good and check the spark plugs to tell him at WOT and idle what they look like so i don’t know what to do. ANY help would be greatly appriciated
thanks danny

 

(longshot guess,,) Have you made sure the firing order is correct or that wires aren't x-firing ?

Firing order diagram (in case you don't have one handy)

I dont' know much about the PROM stuff but, I'd assume the factory settings/programming should be able to somewhat handle a motor swap w/o running like absolute total crap.

 

yea i already checked the order about 10 times and its good and i dont think the spark is jumping either.
thats what i would think that the computer should be able to make it idle smooth becasue a lot of people who do the 350 swap dont get a new chip right away and go around for a little bit just fine and idleing just fine so i just dont know. i just need HELP! before i scrap it
i will send you a video of it idleing deadbird

[This message has been edited by firbird (edited August 26, 2001).]

 

Your problem could be vacuum related. Have you used a guage to check your vacuum? Possible leaks could be intake-head gasket, intake-tbi gasket, or any vacuum hose (especially to map sensor or brake booster). It could be the map sensor itself or the hose to it connected to a ported outlet rather than full vacuum, or the brake booster itself. It could also possibly be a leaky injector. A scan tool could be a big aid in trouble shooting your problem.

Going into closed loop earlier would not help your problem, but it may be possible to make it go into closed loop earlier (for mileage, driveability, emissions, etc.). If your car is not equipped with a heated oxygen sensor you could install one. It's just a matter of switching sensors and running a 12 volt and ground wire to it.