guages jump when car is started
guages jump when car is started
Every time I start my car the pemp guage jumps way out of control and sticks so I have to pull apart my cluster to unstick it
for a tem solution I have glued stoppers in there to keep the needle restricted
any one experienced this or know how to fix it
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Objects in mirror are more stable than they appear
for a tem solution I have glued stoppers in there to keep the needle restricted
any one experienced this or know how to fix it
------------------
Objects in mirror are more stable than they appear
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by v8power:
Every time I start my car the pemp guage jumps way out of control and sticks so I have to pull apart my cluster to unstick it
for a tem solution I have glued stoppers in there to keep the needle restricted
any one experienced this or know how to fix it
</font>
Every time I start my car the pemp guage jumps way out of control and sticks so I have to pull apart my cluster to unstick it
for a tem solution I have glued stoppers in there to keep the needle restricted
any one experienced this or know how to fix it
</font>
I had the same problem before(driving me crazy)...It is the needle going past the outer lip of the gauge and getting stuck at the edge of the gauge...
I took apart the cluster and pushed the neddle inwards...this still didn`t work...So I attached a small metal clip at the edge of the gauge where the needle was getting stuck and PRESTO it works...the needle now hits the clip and falls back into place...haven`t had a problem since...works like a charm
I already glued in stoppers I am wondering how to stop it from jumping like that obviously the coil is getting a good shot of current to jump like that.
it is a shotty design on GM's part so if any one else has any input as to how this can be stoped
help before I get my electric hammer(Homer Simpson Brand) and go to lunch on it.
it is a shotty design on GM's part so if any one else has any input as to how this can be stoped
help before I get my electric hammer(Homer Simpson Brand) and go to lunch on it.
I don't know about other years, but for my '91 Camaro, the ignition switch will ground the input to the temperature gauge when in the "start" position. Grounding the input to the temperature gauge will show the maximum (needle full CW). This is so you can see if the gauge works upon startup.
The same principle applies to indicators that light up with the ignition key in the "start" postion, such as the "check engine" light. The only reason is so you'll know the bulb is still working!
You could open (cut) the wire that grounds the temperature gauge from the ignition switch, leaving only the wire to the sensor intact, but a better (easier?) fix would be to do as suggested above - remove whatever is causing the needle to physically get stuck, or install something to stop the needle from going too far.
A "needle-stop" probably should have been part of the original design...
The same principle applies to indicators that light up with the ignition key in the "start" postion, such as the "check engine" light. The only reason is so you'll know the bulb is still working!
You could open (cut) the wire that grounds the temperature gauge from the ignition switch, leaving only the wire to the sensor intact, but a better (easier?) fix would be to do as suggested above - remove whatever is causing the needle to physically get stuck, or install something to stop the needle from going too far.
A "needle-stop" probably should have been part of the original design...
>the guage has two coils in it that prevent it from jumping when one coil goes south it jumps. replace the guage and all will be fixed.

I have a digital gauge and it's included temp sensor, and when I start the car, it reads 375, then drops down to the actual temp, so it's not the gauge or the sender. It's the circuit design, and I think it was intentional so that you could see that it works.

I have a digital gauge and it's included temp sensor, and when I start the car, it reads 375, then drops down to the actual temp, so it's not the gauge or the sender. It's the circuit design, and I think it was intentional so that you could see that it works.
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