I am trying to install a remote solenoid in order to cure my hot start problem. I basically followed the instructions from the tech article. The problem is when I went to start it, the starter spun, but it didn't engage with the flywheel. Did I connect to the wrong terminals on the old solenoid? I had the battery cable connected to the large terminal on the solenoid, and then I ran a jumper across to the terminal that connects with the starter motor.

Originally, the only other wire that was there (besides the accesory wires) was the purple start wire. I moved that wire to the start terminal on the new relay. I don't think that I have an ignition wire like the one shown in the tech article.
thanks,
Chris

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1990 Formula WS6 - 305 - T5
14.3 @ 96.5 mph
MSD 6AL
Strut tower brace
Subframe connectors
MAC headers
Underpulleys

 

How did you wire up the new relay? Tell us how you wired up EVERYTHING with the new kit, and fixing it shouldnt be a prob.

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 5151 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System

 

Ok, here's what I did.
I didn't have a kit, I just bought a relay and some wire. First I mounted the new relay near the battery and I spiced it into the battery wire that goes to the starter. Then I removed the wires from the old solenoid. The only wire I left in place was the battery wire. I then ran a jumper from the terminal that the battery wire was on to the terminal across from it that had the starter wire connected to it. The wires I removed were the purple start wire and two red accessory wires. I extended these wires to the new relay. I connected the purple wire to the s-terminal and the red wires to the hot side of the relay.
The starter gets power when I crank it, but it doesn't engage the flywheel.

 

I followed the same route when I installed the remote solenoid in my Z. I have everything hooked up the same way as you mentioned, and I sometimes have the same problem when it's cold outside; when it's warm, it works fine. I just got used to giving the starter short bursts with the key until I heard it engage the flywheel, then held it until it fired up.
Another solution to the hot start problem would be to install an ignition cut-out switch in the coils' power feed; it will reduce the load while initially cranking and once it gets rolling over, just flip the switch on and it should fire right up. If you mount the switch in a hidden (but easily accessible spot), it will double as an anti-theft device, and could reduce your insurance premiums

Pete

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Pete's Place
HiOutput Tech Page
83 SC..former V6...now 213+k mile LG4/5-speed.. 14.891@95.54
89 Formula..ultimate project car..fast as I can push it with one flat tire
79 Lemans..267/auto..no brakes

My karma ran over my dogma

 

Do you think that you can tell me exactly how your wires are connected to the old solenoid on the starter. I think that is where my problem is. The starter never engages unless I run another power wire to the start terminal of old solenoid before I turn the key.
thanks,
Chris

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1990 Formula WS6 - 305 - T5
14.3 @ 96.5 mph
MSD 6AL
Strut tower brace
Subframe connectors
MAC headers
Underpulleys

 

Sorry it took so long to reply...I only check this board about once a week.
I checked out the tech article, I had also used a small piece of sheetmetal to jump the two terminals (B and I).
It sounds like everything is wired correctly, as the original solenoid still needs to engage in order to spin the starter. You state that it just spins - there's no grinding? This other power wire you added to make it work, does it need to be hooked to the same terminal as the one the jumper wire from the battery terminal is on? And, is it hooked to the 'hot' side of the remote solenoid or the switched side?
The only other thing I can think of, would be the bendix may be sticking on the shaft.

Pete

 

I don't think the standard chevy starter uses the bendix system. The solenoid actually pushes the starter gear into the ring gear.