Hey guys

I have a strange problem that has been happening intermittantly but is becoming more frequent. Basically what happens is the tach, oil pressure guage, and voltmeter guage, all drop to zero and the right blinker light on the dash stays on solid. Before this happens, the readings for the volt and oil are slightly below normal, like they're not getting a strong signal. After the car is off for a while. The guages will come back and operate correctly for a couple hours or so. Any ideas what could be causing this?

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86 Camaro Sport Coupe, metallic blue
LG4, Tuned Q-Jet, bumped timing
Edlebrock Performer Intake, Edlebrock Open Element,High Flow Cat,Dynomax Catback,B&M Megashifter,GN fan switch, 180* TSAT, 3.42s, 800 Watt System, !EGR, !High-mount brake light, '78 corvette rims, new paint!!!

 

Try taking off the cover for you dash and tightening two 10mm screws that hold on the bottom of your dash. The reason why is these to screws hold the electrical connections tight.

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1989 Iroc-Z 5.7 350, Blue, T-Tops

Lightly Moded:
Edelbrock Headers, Rebuilt B&M 700R-4 Tranny, Higher Stall Torque Converter, Airfoil, 3.4 w\posi, K&N's, Ported Plenum
-- Blue LED Bakelite Dash & Climate Control
"Just some 17 Year old spending every dollar I make on my car."

 

Ok, update to my problem.
The guages seem to work ok when i don't have my headlights or parking lights on, but when i switch them on, i lose the power to those guages. Is this a voltage regulator problem or a short?

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86 Camaro Sport Coupe, metallic blue
LG4, Tuned Q-Jet, bumped timing
Edlebrock Performer Intake, Edlebrock Open Element,High Flow Cat,Dynomax Catback,B&M Megashifter,GN fan switch, 180* TSAT, 3.42s, 800 Watt System, !EGR, !High-mount brake light, '78 corvette rims, new paint!!!

 

I had the exact same thing happen several years ago. When the dash lights were off, all worked well; turn them on, and the guages went jabberwocky.
The problem is a broken PC trace on the back of the instrument cluster. You'll need to pull the cluster and examine the traces to find the broken one, then use a piece of wire to somehow jump the break. What I did was to carefully solder the jumper wire directly to the trace on a bare spot (be careful to not melt the plastic).
Good luck

Pete

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Pete's Place
HiOutput Tech Page
83 SC..former V6...now 215+k mile LG4/5-speed.. 14.891@95.54
89 Formula..ultimate project car..fast as I can push it with one flat tire
79 Lemans..267/auto..no brakes

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