Ripping out wiring
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Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 57
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From: Blaine, MN
Car: 1987 Iroc Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt, 3.23 Posi
Ripping out wiring
I'm sure that I'm not the first to post this question or situation, but here we go again, since the search is temporarily out of service.
-87 Iroc, 305, 5spd,- I'm ditching all of the computer controlled goodies, such as carb, distributor, emissions equip and the like.
My question is, since I'm doing this, what's the harm in just removing the computer and all of its wiring entirely? Is there some other systems in the car that are feeding data to this that I should be aware of and if so what are they? I probably have plans for future deletion of them as well.
Thanks guys.
-87 Iroc, 305, 5spd,- I'm ditching all of the computer controlled goodies, such as carb, distributor, emissions equip and the like.
My question is, since I'm doing this, what's the harm in just removing the computer and all of its wiring entirely? Is there some other systems in the car that are feeding data to this that I should be aware of and if so what are they? I probably have plans for future deletion of them as well.
Thanks guys.
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 6,775
Likes: 27
From: So.west IN
Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
Easier than trying to describe what wires are what to keep or toss, unwrapping the loom & tape off the harnesses would be the most benificial to see what runs to where.
All ECM related wiring (the crap to junk) runs to the opening thru the frame next to the blower motor. Everything non ECM goes to the bulkhead on the firewall next to the brake booster. The ECm is usually powered by a circuit that is fused right off the battery and not hooked up at the starter terminal
All ECM related wiring (the crap to junk) runs to the opening thru the frame next to the blower motor. Everything non ECM goes to the bulkhead on the firewall next to the brake booster. The ECm is usually powered by a circuit that is fused right off the battery and not hooked up at the starter terminal
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Blaine, MN
Car: 1987 Iroc Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt, 3.23 Posi
Earl - I'd give it up for free, but it's not fuel injected. The last year for carbs in the Camaro's. I don't think that it would be of any use to you. But if you're still interested, let me know.
I've just finished pulling out the wiring harness to the ECM from my 87 305TPI. I'm looking to sell the motor and the wiring harness and ECM in one package. I'm replacing it all with a simple carb setup. I have labled all the connectors to what they came from, but I had to remove all the wire management covering to figure out what I had to keep and what I had to remove.
What is the going price for this package? I live in Kansas.
What is the going price for this package? I live in Kansas.
Let me point this out first. My new motor is not in and running yet.
I pulled everything out that entered the passenger compartment on the passenger side of the car. I did have to pull off all the wire management and sort through all the wires to determine what went where in order to do this. The two harnesses merge together under the hood which required me to do this.
I pulled everything out that entered the passenger compartment on the passenger side of the car. I did have to pull off all the wire management and sort through all the wires to determine what went where in order to do this. The two harnesses merge together under the hood which required me to do this.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 57
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From: Blaine, MN
Car: 1987 Iroc Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt, 3.23 Posi
jlamprecht -- how did you disconnect the ecm harness from inside of the passanger side fender? I've seperated it out, but now I'm not sure what I should do. I could just cut it as far down as I can reach, but I would much rather remove it completely. I can say this, it's a heckofalot easier once the engine is removed.
On the inside of the car where the wiring harness goes through the firewall, there is a black plastic clip that slides between the firewall and the moded piece with the wires in it. It has to be slid up to take the harness out. I didn't relize this untill I had the fender removed. There is also a black plastic retaining loop mounting high on the inside of the fender. You'll probably be able to break it loose from the engine bay without removing the fender. Here is a picture to guide you. I don't have a picture of the inside. If you need one let me know. Also, incase I wasn't clear, the wiring harness comes from the inside and pushes to the outside once the retaining clip is removed. If this works for you, it'll save your the 4 hours I messed with removing and re-installing my fender(it was my first time).
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Blaine, MN
Car: 1987 Iroc Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt, 3.23 Posi
Thanks, I'll give it a try tonight. Sorry that you had to rip the fender off, but that's what I was planning on doing if I couldn't figure it out. I really need to get a camera so that I can participate in the digital age.
Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
From: Travis AFB, CA
Car: 05 Nissan Xterra
Engine: 4.0L DOHC
Transmission: 5 Speed Auto w/ OD
Don't remove your fender. I found it easier to just remove the wheel well (inner black lining in fender), and worked on mine. Much more better, just where gloves so you don't have to go to the hospital when you cut your hand or arm. (Longsleeves too!)
one thing the ecm controls that nobody mentioned is the tranny I think. if you put in another O.D. tranny you will need to make sure you hook up a presure switch for the overdrive to work properly. I had to do this with my car.
Explain what you had to do with the Pressure switch. I though all I had to do was cross two wires that came from the electrical connector on the transmission to make the transmission lock up. I guess what I just said doesn't apply to overdrive. What did you end up doing?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 1
From: Paris, Tx. USA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: TH350
Overdrive will work fine, you just have to rig up a manual switch for the TC lock-up, if you want it, though its not totally neccessary. Its good for gas mileage on the highway, and worth about .2 on the strip. I've been running mine with no lock-up for 2 years now and no problems.
The tech article on this site helps little for non-CC carbed applications, but should still work for cars where the wiring is still intact.
The tech article on this site helps little for non-CC carbed applications, but should still work for cars where the wiring is still intact.
How do you go about rigging up a switch for the torque converter? I've pulled out all the wiring that goes to the ECM and I have no wires pluged into the transmissino right now, but plan on finding a pigtail to use. What wires need crossing to make the TC lockup?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 1
From: Paris, Tx. USA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: TH350
If you still have the wiring harness, retrieve the plug and wires that went to the transmission. If not, get one from the junkyard. Plug it back into the tranny and run the wires to where you want to put the switch, under the steering column somewhere is the best place. This will get you started, and I can let you know Sunday what wires do what. Or if someone else can tell you sooner, that would be cool.
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