every now and then my car won't start... it won't even attempt to crank. its almost like the little switch on the clutch isn't working it mostly does it when its cold and wet... now i have got the headers on my car it won't start. i am afraid i jacked something up. can anyone tell me where the vats thing is under the hood? also if i go get the resistor for the wires to match my key will that help if the vats system is messed up? any tips would be real nice since my wife would like me to stop playing with the car so she can drive hers instead of me driving it... thanks

 

If you suspect a VATS issue look at the "security" lamp when you turn the key to the "on" position. It should stay lit for about 2 seconds then go out. If it does its not a problem with key detection. If the light stays on then you can try placing a resistor across the wire to the ECM. The VATS module is located on the pass side up under the dash(awful place to get to). VATS failure normally will throw a trouble code, try reading the ECM for stored codes. There is also a starter enable relay located behind the driver side kick panel. That relay is driven by the VATS system and basically opens up the solenoid voltage if it doesn't see the correct PASS key. Rule out the normal stuff first, e.g. starter, safety switches. Most of the problems I have seen related to the VATS are problems in the ignition sw. The contacts for the pellet break, rarely have I actually seen the module fail. The module is pricey and difficult to replace. Keep us posted, gotta have peace on the homefront!

 

Bought my Ta about 2 years ago and had the same problem. At first I thought it was the key. So I eliminated that by getting a new key from Gm. It Still happened intermittently. After further inspection under the steering collunm, I found a wire that seemed to have a splice in it that was wrapped in loose electrical tape. When I took the tape off to see what it was, it revealed a resister that the wire was just wrapped around at both ends loosely with a smattering of electrical tape to hold it together. I soldered the wires to the resister and put a plastic cover on it. Havn't had a problem since. 90% of our cars are multi owner vehicles. Many of which have exstensive modifications to many systems from top to bottom. Unfortunately we come accross some pretty sloppy work that has us pulling our hair out to rectify. Hope my experience helps.

 

I had a VATS problem on mine too. I thought it was the module but when I realized that thing was almost impossible to get to, I decided to check the lock cylinder instead first. One of the wires had a piece of insulation missing and I guess it must've kept shorting on the metal. Replaced the cylinder and problem was solved.