Electronics Need help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?

Turn Key.....No crank (sometimes)

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Old 02-21-2003, 07:54 PM
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Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: For me to know.....
Transmission: and you to find out....
Turn Key.....No crank (sometimes)

Ok heres a horror story for you electronics guru's.... Sometimes when i turn the ignition key in my 91 Formula I exhibit a "no crank" situation. There is no power to the starter soleniod. First I thought it was the starter itself because I would hear the heavy "clicking" from the starter. So I assumed the starter was hitting a "bad spot." So I replaced it...I was learning how to drive a manual so the old starter was taking a beating anyway. Put the new stater in...same problem. Sometimes it starts perfect other times..I have heavy starter draw..and sometimes I dont hear anything. This leads me to believe I have "high resistance" problem somewhere in the car. Bla Bla Bla Bla...Currently I pulled the driver side kick panel out (2 screws) and came across a relay (GM part # 1409-3107). Im not the greatest with wiring shematics so bare with me. I couldnt find the relay on the wiring schematics so I assumed that this was a starter motor relay. Sorry I forgot to mention earlier that yes.. I do have a manual trans. Can anybody tell me what this relay is?? I went to GMparts direct and all they can tell me is that is a relay. I hate that site...what waste. Is it a starter motor relay?? Clutch interuptor switch?? I ended up taking a paper clip and bypassing this relay. Low and behold it starts.... So I figure this is the problem. I got another one from GM a couple days ago. I put it in my car..turn the key..NOTHING! NO CRANK! I get the paperclip out..."hop" the connections. The car starts. Take the paperclip out..put the relay in it starts. I dont get it...hopefully some one out there can help me. Obviously this is not a bad starter motor since there is no power getting to stater itself. Im pretty comfident that the VAT system isnt locking me out of the car. So Im gonna rule that out. Anybody got any ideas????? Im MORE than willing to listen.

TIA

Dan
Old 02-21-2003, 08:46 PM
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Car: 91 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Turn the key to the on position. Does the "secuity" light stay on? If so it is your VATS. Your key might need replaced. Just a guess.

Last edited by jeffsbluez; 02-22-2003 at 10:21 AM.
Old 02-22-2003, 01:41 AM
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mine does the same thing from time to time. i was told it might be the neutral safety switch that is inside the console by the shifter. mine has only done it twice so it hasnt been a big deal but i plan on replacing it soon so it doesnt go all the way out and leave me stranded somewhere
Old 02-25-2003, 02:35 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 10:1 355 L98
Transmission: 700R4
I actually had this same problem with my 91 rs. Turn the key and get a click but no start? i went through 3 starters before we figured out that it was just a wire that had been frayed and wasn't carrying enough voltage to the starter. I forgot which exact wire it was, sorry, it was a few years ago. But just a suggestion
Old 02-25-2003, 11:09 PM
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i dont think that it is the neutral safety switch. if it was that, there would be no sounds. it would be as if you tried to start your car without the clutch in, no sound. in my experiences, very low power, for instance, near dead battery, will cause a clicking sound. I would check for a bad wire somewhere, as Feniks9174
has stated above. just my opinion.
Old 02-26-2003, 05:51 PM
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Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: For me to know.....
Transmission: and you to find out....
I am leaning on the netrual saftey switch because sometimes I dont hear anything when I turn the key. I still have to print out the wiring diagrams for my car to see if Im overlooking anything.

Later..

Dan
Old 02-26-2003, 06:20 PM
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Car: 89 Formula, WS6
Engine: LB9/peanut cam :(
Transmission: 700R4
You can rule out the VATS system if you can get it to start with a paper clip. The VATS does more than just lock out the starter. The computer won't pulse the fuel injectors until it receives a valid signal from the VATS module, so if you're VATS was bad, jumping the relay would allow it to crank, but still no fire.

Look to the security lamp in the instrument panel. When the VATS is properly functioning, and properly activated, that light will come on for about 2 seconds after turning the ignition on. If the light never comes on, or stays on, there is a VATS problem. If the light stays on, then the VATS has been triggered, and has locked out the system for about 5 minutes. Nothing can bypass it. Not even unpluggin the battery. You will have to wait the full 5 minutes if that is the case.

Since you got it to start with the paper clip, I'd say the problem lies either in the relay, or in a poor connection somewhere. Take a note of what the security light is doing when your car is in it's no-start condition, and report back.

good luck
Old 02-26-2003, 09:07 PM
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I'll admit that after spending forever trying to figure out a similar problem, it turned out to be bad connections at my battery. Sure, it hurts my ego to say I was checking all the hard stuff first. So, if you haven't checked for corrosion and such, give it a try, maybe you'll get lucky.
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