when i got my 88 iroc, i didn't notice the rear defroster wasn't functional - now that it's snowy and stuff, i really need it to see out the back - but alas, it doesn't work...

i got the trusty dmm out, and tested some connections - at the driverside of the rear hatch metal strip webbing (that goes along the window and connects to each line that goes accross) i got a full 12.89 volts - the otherside read 0 volts as i think it should, and i tried continuity between the ground side stripping and another ground on the car, and sure enough, the ground is good... i checked for resistance across the window and came up with 53 ohms i believe... but yet for some reason, the rear defroster doesn't work no matter how long you leave it on... i ran through a few diagrams in my chiltons manual, and came up with one small thing.... i was testing each pin on the switch (with the switch activated) and everything seemed to be putting out the right volts except for terminal "C" which said it was supposed to go to block 8 on the fuse block - it was reading a mere .2 volts (from port C to ground) - i checked the fuse, and it's good - 5 amps and working like it should be...

so whats the deal? how am i getting the proper voltage on each side, yet the defroster isn't working?

once i warm up a bit, i'll see if i can check the current/amperage going through (still snowing outside)

 

Try turning the defroster on, and then checking the voltage from the top of one lift strut to the top of the other one. That defroster has enough resistance that if it's receiving power, there will be a voltage drop across them. If there's no voltage drop, then the problem is that your defroster isn't getting any power