Well heres my problem the other day i started my car and my rear hatch started to open and close repeatedly nonstop. I checked some fuses and pulled the engine cooling fan fuse to stop it. Anyone have any Info as to whats going on.

 

They hatch pull-down unit and the fan relay are powered by different fuses. The fuse to the hatch pull-down unit is the #3 15 amp fuse located in the top row, third column from the left. The cooling fan relay fuse it the #4 20 amp just to the left of it. I've never experienced the problem. It sounds like an electrical issue. There are only 3 electrical components to the unit. The striker sensing switch, which includes the entire wiring for the pull-down unit. The relay and the reversing switch. The striker-sensing switch attaches with just one screw attaching it to the latch, then plug it into the reversing switch and pop on a relay. Also what is the condition of your hatch struts? If the hatch is popped and the latch hook doesn't rise enough (weak struts) the latch portion will rise and the hatch hook will contact the striker-sensing switch. The unit continues to rise until it reaches the top of the cycle and trips the reversing switch. At that time the unit will immediately power down because the hatch hook is contacting the striker-sensing switch. The unit should shut off once it reaches the bottom of the cycle and again trips the reversing switch. It makes no sense that the unit would cycle up on its own again unless the hatch release was tripped again.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

 

well my hatch struts are ****, the rear hatch will not stay up on its own, you've gotta hold it up with something. Because the hatch goes up but not all the way so u can open it. b/c it goes just up until it clicks and then it pulls it back down, so i think it might have something to do with the striking sensor. So u say its the #3 fuse, will taking it out make the problem stop?

 

Yes. As a temporary band-aid you can remove that fuse or unplug the red with white striped wire from the blue wire of the hatch pull-down unit. You'll kill the clear plastic motor housing in short order if you open and slam the hatch more than a few times. You may want to let the latch rise just a bit before yanking the fuse so the hatch doesn't have to compress the rear seal so hard when you slam it. Of course keep the windows open to compensate for the carbon monoxide that is sucked in through the seal. Wow, solve one problem and create another one. But what's a little CO? Why fix a lil $40 dollar item?

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

 

Check the hatch pop switch too, the wires could be worn out and touching, or jumping the contacts.