i just now removed pass side mtor from the 82 in 5 minutes or less, all you need is

- a blade or similar smaller flat tool to un-do electrical connectors at the relay, and the inline white wire connector,

- 10mm socket and extension to remove the three long screws that hold motor to the car body.

- a big flat screwdriver to pry off the actuator output rod off the shaft arm wqhere the black rubber grommet is or you could remove the nut directly off the output shaft at the motor and pop off the steel arm lever, that would be safer actually,

this was very easy, way more easier and simpler than i thought could be, looks complicated just looking on car, but isnt at all,
anyone can remove them in no time at all, really




i need to know:

-what is the light bulb looking thing under the three flathead screw cover on side of the motor where the limit points sets are and armature brushes are. please ? thanks


my motors dont match, one is aluminum **** with four holes and other is black plastic, i have a mess to sort out.

my pass side motor has plastic black **** and three bolts holding it to car body and three wires green gray and white, white is lone wire by itself with inline connector, is this correct for 82 ?

driver side has aluminum metal **** and three wires and only two bolts hold it to the car body: gray and green and dark blue single wire that someone spliced original white inline connector wire to, correct original to the car

my driver side: 5048790 047 317 11
pass side: 5045783 189 2 17 11
please tell me what these are if you can thanks


and how do you get to the white triangle thing inside where the three cylindrical bushing things are ?
i haven't find any of this yet so far and dont see how where could be in the motor, this thing is riveted together, so.,.


both my motor housings are busted, so im gonna use these for disassembly and reassembly practice

thanks for anything at all that may help, i hope i helped someone somehow by posting this, lemme know


thanks

 

If you could find the GM p/n on the housings, I have the collision guide you can check the #s for years with that.

As far as the 'triangle thing', you shouldn't have to take the motor itself apart to get to. There should be a cover where the actuator arm comes out from the motor. The main gear is in that and is what has to come apart to fix the bushings. If rivets hold the cover on. I would assume you'd have to drill them out then bolt or rivet it back together.

Here's what one of mine (87) looks like apart (the white crumbly crap is what's left of the bushing)...

 

Wow deadbird, so thats what I have to look forward to when I fix my head lights? Amazing. Why didn't they just use metal in the first place? Probably more expensive but you wouldn't have to fix it a few years down the road.

 

i already posted all the numbers on both housings, thats oen heck of a plastic mess you have there,
are your housings aluminum ? that what it looks like, mine wont come apart liek yours do, how did you manage to separate the round cover ? mine are one piece housings... the round cover part is one with the rest of the housing, that is odd.

hmmmmm
thanks

 

Yep.. that's the present GM has hidden in the motor housing just for you
I don't know if I agree with the metal part but, I think they should have used a bit more durable material, like nylon instead of the soft bushing used. I think if you were to use metal, it would deliver more shock direct to the gears and motor causing them to eventually fail. I replaced mine with .5oo" nylon bushing turned down slightly for snug but, not rock tight, fit. I know of one guy on here that just epoxied the innards together. Many solutions to solve the problem, pick the one you like best.

Fast.. those aren't any GM numbers I know ove. Usually GM numbers are 8 digits.
The numbers for the actuator (motor assembly) are
82-84.... 22038875(R), 22038776(L)
85-86.... 22039719(R), 22039720(L)
87-92.... 16507924(R), 16507923(L)

You should have those numbers on the motor housings somewhere. That will identfy weather they are the correct year for your car.
The gear housings for my lights are what appear to be cast aluminum or just crappy pot metal. I didn't inspect that too close when they were apart.
The cover to the main gear on mine is held in place with 3 hex screws (7mm or 9/32 IIRC). One gone, the cover pops off and the gear almost pulls right out. I had to loosen the motor screws slightly on one unit to get the main gear to slide past the worm gear. Here's a crappy pic of 2 of the screws/their location...

 

hmm pretty crazy hmm.. mine wont come off and i have no hex screws or any other screws at all on either housing except for the three that hold the cover on that cover the points and motor brushes, i dont see a gear under the cover on either motor, i know what im supposed to be seeing but there isnt, the gear is down lower in the motor unit than the brushes and points are, but no wayt o get to them. im gonna trash these junk motors and find some 87-92 ones i suppose, i must have a pair of oddball one off ones or something. wish i had my digicam.... my housings are broken and plastic anyways. even one of the output shaft aluminum levers been welded ! these motors been through hell of a life.. brushes melted on the motor that overheats, have i come across the most trashed junk motors in existence ??

the numbers i posted above ar eon silver sticker on the top part of the motors nd there are no numbers onm the housings at all anywhere else, ive looked and looked and looked some more and are no GM numbers, but stickers say Delco so i know are GM


thanks!

 

I'll certainly have to say your light motors sound like they've had a better life once before.
You might be better off with 87-up but, I would almost have to say that you'll want the wiring to go with them and possibly the mount brackets too (the housing the motor bolts to). I don't know what would be different but, from 82-86 has a different p/n from 87-up. I'd have to say just about anything seems it would be better than what you currently have.

 

yeah cuz these are broken

i wish i knew why and how yours are aluminum and removable round cover and mine are plastic and no where is removable anywhere near output shaft..
wierd...

the only way i could take these aprt is if i drill out all he rivets all around perimeter of the entire case and it would split down center

the ones you have must be 87-up thing,

thanks

 

http://www.michiganfieroclub.org/headlight.htm

i think im gonna look for an 87-92 harness sinc eit looks like is easy to remove and swap, and look for 87-up motors to rebuild or whatever that dont have broken cases

thanks