Hatch pulldown help!
Hatch pulldown help!
Well my RS convertible finally did it too, my trunklid is stuck up. I am trying to troubleshoot what is wrong. It came up just fine and then... nothing. The motor is not running, the guides don't seem too worn out, and the fuse is good. So I am thinking wiring, switch and or the relay. What I could really use is a wiring diagram. The problem is that a previous owner really butchered and tangled the wiring back in the trunk. Wiring is hanging loose all over the place. I need to know what color wires are what and how I could possibly jump the motor to just make is close. I really need to get it closed ( its been raining this week! ), since the shaking broke my spoiler
. BTW, I did do search, just in case somebody wanted to suggest that, really just need a wiring diagram. Thanks
. BTW, I did do search, just in case somebody wanted to suggest that, really just need a wiring diagram. Thanks Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 615
Likes: 0
From: Ogden, UT
Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
I have pretty much the same problem, I still havent solved it, but To get it to atliest lock shut, i marked the whole entire assembly in 3 places with a sharpie to get the exact position, and loosted 3 bolts and slid it all up a tiny bit so that it would atliest lock till I could solve it...
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
No wiring diagram exists. The power to the unit is the red with white stripe wire which connects to the blue wire of the hatch pull-down unit. If the wires are botched up as you state, I'd replace them. The part you need is called the striker-sensing switch. That contains the entire wiring for the hatch pull-down unit along with the small black switch whitch secures next to the striker. GM has recently discontinued the striker-sensing switch for 1988-91 hatch pull-down units. They still stock the 1986-87 ones though. The ONLY difference is the connector used on the blue wire. Just cut off yours and splice it onto the new wiring and you're done (of course plug in a new relay too).
Note: The info I've given is valid for the hatch pull-down units from 1986-91. 1991 there was a change mid-year to the pull-down unit. This info applies only to the early style which have a metal frame. If yours has a tan colored injection molded plastic frame this info does not apply to you. The only parts I have for the 91-92 units are the gear nut and reversing switch.
Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
Note: The info I've given is valid for the hatch pull-down units from 1986-91. 1991 there was a change mid-year to the pull-down unit. This info applies only to the early style which have a metal frame. If yours has a tan colored injection molded plastic frame this info does not apply to you. The only parts I have for the 91-92 units are the gear nut and reversing switch.
Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
There was actually an article about this in the lates issue of Camaro Performers. It shows you how to remove and either repair or replace all three parts of this mechanism. It does not specify wire color code, but it may help you just the same.
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I fixed it, it was jammed since my guides were shot. I quick trip to the junkyard netted another setup with good guides and spare relays and switches. I rebuilt mine with the best parts of the two and relubed everything with lithium grease. Works nice now.
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