I accidentally attached the battery cables reversed. Key was never inserted. But the Sony CDX630 CD Player blew its 10A fuse, after replacement, it now works fine. But the "check engine light" does not come on, nor does the fuel pump. The 10A ECM fuse is good, and 12V is applied to it when the key is turned. I have a carbed engine, but I do need the fuel pump and VATS (defeated with a resistor currently) system to work. I checked the under hood inline fuses, all were good.

If I did blow the ECM, I'm pretty sure the info to hot wire the VATS and fuel pump is available with a search on this forum right?

 

If the fuse popped , then i highly doubt you fried the ECM.
Is the VATS light coming on when you try to start?
If it is then that is where your problem lies.
Do a search, I know there are ways around the VATS system listed on here.

 

That's just it, the 10A ECM fuse did not pop. VATS light? I have a "security" light that does come on. But before this happened, I did successfully defeat the VATS with a resistor (measured from original key).

But the "check engine" light is off now. And it should be on like it was, since every sensor is unplugged.

 

hooked up battery backwards equals a fried ecm. teh ecm is hot no matter is the switch is on or off. try the sniff test. take the ecm out unplug the connectors and see if it has a burnt smell on hte inside of it.

 

Is the ECM fuse you checked in the fuse panel or under the hood.
On my 86 IROC there is a fuse under the hood next to the battery in a weather pack connector that is for the ECM. Ive blown this fuse before.

 

I checked in the fuse panel. Weather pack? Under the hood I checked all the large inline fuseable links I could find, all were good. Near my battery on my 92 RS is just a jumble of wires, I bought the car without a motor.

I knew the ECM was hot always, in order to retain the engine codes, and learning curve or whatever. Just like the CD player is always hot to hold it's settings. At least the Sony CD player saved itself.

The motor is carbed. So I think I just need to twist some wires together for the VATS system and then ignition switch the fuel pump. Pin G on the GM diagnostic connector is 12V for the pump. Can I just apply ignition switched 12V here? Not sure what the current draw on the pump is.