Problem starting up, Please help!!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Car: 89 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 stock (big mods coming up)
Transmission: automatic for now (T56 coming)
Problem starting up, Please help!!
Ok, I have an 89 GTA 350. When I start the engine it fires right up, but if I shut it off, It won't start again. But ten minutes after, It will fire right up again with no trouble at all.
By the way I get a code 12, I don't know if it is related to it, but I get it.
I have search through the forum for code 12, but the search says that it is not within the minimum word lenght (I guess the "12") And if I search for code12 alltogether will only get a thread unrelated.
Please some feedback guys, I'd really appreciate it.
By the way I get a code 12, I don't know if it is related to it, but I get it.
I have search through the forum for code 12, but the search says that it is not within the minimum word lenght (I guess the "12") And if I search for code12 alltogether will only get a thread unrelated.
Please some feedback guys, I'd really appreciate it.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Car: 89 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 stock (big mods coming up)
Transmission: automatic for now (T56 coming)
I just found out that code 12 means everything is OK.
But I have the haynes repair manual, and it says that code 12 stands for "No distributor reference pulse".
What does this mean?? Does it mean that when the key is on the ON position but with the engine off, the distributor gets no pulse and therefore everything is normal??
Starting to have a headache about this...
But I have the haynes repair manual, and it says that code 12 stands for "No distributor reference pulse".
What does this mean?? Does it mean that when the key is on the ON position but with the engine off, the distributor gets no pulse and therefore everything is normal??
Starting to have a headache about this...
TGO Supporter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 11
From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
You have hit the answer on the head. If the key is turned to the on position with the engine off, the distributor is not turning. Therefore it is not sending a reference pulse to the computer. Good luck!!! Sorry about the headache, take 4 tylenols and call the mechanic in the morning.(just joking
)
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!
)The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Car: 89 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 stock (big mods coming up)
Transmission: automatic for now (T56 coming)
OK, got the code deal straight, but I still have the starting problem. Anyone has a problem like mine? any help wold be great.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Car: 89 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 stock (big mods coming up)
Transmission: automatic for now (T56 coming)
After some searching, I've found out some things that might help me, but still have some doubts:
It might be VATS problem, but the first time I start the engine, it starts right up, it never has had a problem starting thr first time. It always happens after the first time.
When it doesn't start, the engine turns, therefore, not an starter problem.
One more fact: When I put the key to the ON position without starting the engine, the "service engine soon" stays on,but when I start it the first time, it goes off. is this normal?
Please guys help me.
It might be VATS problem, but the first time I start the engine, it starts right up, it never has had a problem starting thr first time. It always happens after the first time.
When it doesn't start, the engine turns, therefore, not an starter problem.
One more fact: When I put the key to the ON position without starting the engine, the "service engine soon" stays on,but when I start it the first time, it goes off. is this normal?
Please guys help me.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
greetings Hesgone2fast, I have just e-mailed you some information you can read concerning the VATS. It should explain a few things for you. Also in regards to your question about the SES light, that is normal.
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Car: 89 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 stock (big mods coming up)
Transmission: automatic for now (T56 coming)
first of all, I need to thank trickster for all his help.
To day I took my whole dash wiring appart to check the wires, relays and all that, and this is what i founded:
When I turn the key to the on position for the first time and start the engine, starts no problem, but then after I shut it off, and put the key again i to strat it again, The engine does not start and the security light is not on, but the engine cranks, While doing this I took the starter enable relay on the left kick panel out, and the engine won't even crank. then put it back in and the engine would cranck but wouldn't start. five minutes later, again fires up strong with no hesitation at all. Shut it off again and wont start again, took the decoder module right behind the dash where the air outlets are, the grey box that says pass key, turn the key, and engine wouldn't crank either, so plug back in and would cranck again but would start. Five minutes later, fires up like a champ.
I have noticed that the cables that were supposed to go from the lock cylinder to the decoder module ( should be two thin yellow cables, right??) are not plug at either side. on one side they have a black plug, on the other each one has a copper metal plate that looks like they shuld be connected in the lock cylinder.
Instead, I see coming out from the steering column, at the same point where the yellow cables where hanging out, a pair of cables that are wrapped up in a bright orange plastic cover all the way down. this cables go up into the steering column (like going to the lock cylinder) and on the other dide they have a black plug just the same like the one in the yellow cables.
This plug is plugged into another black conector with two white wires on the other side.
I thought that a previos owner had a problem with it already and replaced the yellow wires and forgot to pull the old one out.
Now, I'm getting too wired about this.
I've read somewhere that it's possible to take the cables from the lock cylinder, measure the correct resistance from the key's chip, and buy a resistor with the same resistance from circuit city and just plug it into the two cables going into the wiring harness. This would make the vats theft system don't work, but I don't care anymore, I'm tired of this vats crap.
Can this be done that easy??
Please, trickster, it seems you know about this deal. I've read the entire file you sent me, and it's great, but doesn't really help me because the four only cases that it could fail doesn't apply to me. My case is that engine cranks, security light is off and get no codes at all besides 12.
I just can't understand how can the engineers can make a system that if it fails the engine won't start
By the way, my car has 97000 miles and is already having troubles, how will it be with 150000???
To day I took my whole dash wiring appart to check the wires, relays and all that, and this is what i founded:
When I turn the key to the on position for the first time and start the engine, starts no problem, but then after I shut it off, and put the key again i to strat it again, The engine does not start and the security light is not on, but the engine cranks, While doing this I took the starter enable relay on the left kick panel out, and the engine won't even crank. then put it back in and the engine would cranck but wouldn't start. five minutes later, again fires up strong with no hesitation at all. Shut it off again and wont start again, took the decoder module right behind the dash where the air outlets are, the grey box that says pass key, turn the key, and engine wouldn't crank either, so plug back in and would cranck again but would start. Five minutes later, fires up like a champ.
I have noticed that the cables that were supposed to go from the lock cylinder to the decoder module ( should be two thin yellow cables, right??) are not plug at either side. on one side they have a black plug, on the other each one has a copper metal plate that looks like they shuld be connected in the lock cylinder.
Instead, I see coming out from the steering column, at the same point where the yellow cables where hanging out, a pair of cables that are wrapped up in a bright orange plastic cover all the way down. this cables go up into the steering column (like going to the lock cylinder) and on the other dide they have a black plug just the same like the one in the yellow cables.
This plug is plugged into another black conector with two white wires on the other side.
I thought that a previos owner had a problem with it already and replaced the yellow wires and forgot to pull the old one out.
Now, I'm getting too wired about this.
I've read somewhere that it's possible to take the cables from the lock cylinder, measure the correct resistance from the key's chip, and buy a resistor with the same resistance from circuit city and just plug it into the two cables going into the wiring harness. This would make the vats theft system don't work, but I don't care anymore, I'm tired of this vats crap.
Can this be done that easy??
Please, trickster, it seems you know about this deal. I've read the entire file you sent me, and it's great, but doesn't really help me because the four only cases that it could fail doesn't apply to me. My case is that engine cranks, security light is off and get no codes at all besides 12.
I just can't understand how can the engineers can make a system that if it fails the engine won't start
By the way, my car has 97000 miles and is already having troubles, how will it be with 150000???
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TGO Supporter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Hello hesgone2fast, I must apologize for not responding to your last post. On the 12th, the wife had me take her to Epcot and Universal studios down in Florida and I just got back tonight. Let me sit down with my manuals and browse through them some more and I hope to have an answer for you tomorrow.
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Car: 89 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 stock (big mods coming up)
Transmission: automatic for now (T56 coming)
Thank you so much for your time I really appreciate it!!!
I'm just about to go nuts about this car!!
I'm just about to go nuts about this car!!
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 88
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From: lima,ohio
Car: 89 formula 350
Engine: L98(350)
Transmission: 700R4
my 89 formula 350 does the same thing it will start and run then if I shut it off and restart it will just crank over and over but let sit for about 10 to 15 mins. it will start up fine with no problems at all I have replaced a lot of parts to try and fix this problem to no avail i.e. injectors,fpr, dist. module, fuel pump, entire dist., maf sensor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coolant temp sensor,fuel pump relay, computer, spent too much money on this problem. I don't think that the injectors are not getting a ground pulse from the computer to fire the injectors.bit if I shoot some starting fliud in the throttlebody the car will fire up and run if you find out what it is please let me know so I can fix mine too thanks
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 11
From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Greetings hesgone2fast,
Well now that I have had a good nights sleep, let's look at your problem again. You mentioned two yellow wires with a copper plate, where these wires jumpered to this plate? Can you take a picture of them and send it to me? Also, what I would like for you to do is e-mail me with all the information of what you have done so far step by step. This way I can sit down and read it and compare it to my diagnostic trouble shooting chart.

The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!
Well now that I have had a good nights sleep, let's look at your problem again. You mentioned two yellow wires with a copper plate, where these wires jumpered to this plate? Can you take a picture of them and send it to me? Also, what I would like for you to do is e-mail me with all the information of what you have done so far step by step. This way I can sit down and read it and compare it to my diagnostic trouble shooting chart.

The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!
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