Motor wont stop cranking
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 264
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From: The Wastelands of Minnesota
Car: 1986 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 1991 305 TBI
Transmission: Th700-R4
Motor wont stop cranking
OKay, so we pulled the V6; the V8 is at home in my Firebird's engine bay. We got it all hooked up to everything, and spent a helluva time making the wiring harnesses from the '91 camaro 305 match my '86 firebird ex-v6.
So we "finished" and we decided to try the motor out. Well, we came up with two problems:
1) The 305 isnt getting gas - hypothesis: v6 tank cant handle the pressure, swap in z28 tank; VATS
2) Engine wont stop cranking - hypothesis: we screwed something up; bad starter solenoid, VATS, ???
We were able to start up and shut down with no probs twice. The third time, we weren't able to stop the cranking. We pulled out the key, still crankin; pulled out some fuses, still cranking. I had to disconnect the battery to shut her up. So what were going to do is set up a kill switch untill we can get this issue solved...
any ideas on any of the above?
So we "finished" and we decided to try the motor out. Well, we came up with two problems:
1) The 305 isnt getting gas - hypothesis: v6 tank cant handle the pressure, swap in z28 tank; VATS
2) Engine wont stop cranking - hypothesis: we screwed something up; bad starter solenoid, VATS, ???
We were able to start up and shut down with no probs twice. The third time, we weren't able to stop the cranking. We pulled out the key, still crankin; pulled out some fuses, still cranking. I had to disconnect the battery to shut her up. So what were going to do is set up a kill switch untill we can get this issue solved...
any ideas on any of the above?
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 29
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From: Houston Tx
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 Modded
Transmission: 700R4 B&M blue clutches
i had a friend that did a v-6 to 350 swp and he had the same problem ..i dont reall know what the problem was but ill try to get ahold of him and see for you..
Check the small awg wire at the starter solonoid, and see if it has voltage after you stop cranking with the key. My guess is that you have the starter wire tied into 12+ somewhere and that is making the starter drag.
For the other problem, the tank itself wouldn't have anything to do with it. Have you verified at the engine to see what, if any, pressure you are getting? Depending on what injection system you had, you may need an adjustable FPR or a larger pump. Can you hear the pump priming before you start it?
Do you have the oil pressure switch hooked up, and do you have oil pressure? If not, the computer will not allow the fuel pump relay to activate.
If it is VATS, the security light will illuminate on the cluster. To bypass that you can burn a custom chip, or locate the 2 wires going down the column and splice in a resistor with the same value as the pod in the key.
Good luck,
Matt
For the other problem, the tank itself wouldn't have anything to do with it. Have you verified at the engine to see what, if any, pressure you are getting? Depending on what injection system you had, you may need an adjustable FPR or a larger pump. Can you hear the pump priming before you start it?
Do you have the oil pressure switch hooked up, and do you have oil pressure? If not, the computer will not allow the fuel pump relay to activate.
If it is VATS, the security light will illuminate on the cluster. To bypass that you can burn a custom chip, or locate the 2 wires going down the column and splice in a resistor with the same value as the pod in the key.
Good luck,
Matt
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 264
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From: The Wastelands of Minnesota
Car: 1986 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 1991 305 TBI
Transmission: Th700-R4
Originally posted by onebinky
Check the small awg wire at the starter solonoid, and see if it has voltage after you stop cranking with the key. My guess is that you have the starter wire tied into 12+ somewhere and that is making the starter drag.
Check the small awg wire at the starter solonoid, and see if it has voltage after you stop cranking with the key. My guess is that you have the starter wire tied into 12+ somewhere and that is making the starter drag.
Originally posted by onebinky
For the other problem, the tank itself wouldn't have anything to do with it. Have you verified at the engine to see what, if any, pressure you are getting? Depending on what injection system you had, you may need an adjustable FPR or a larger pump. Can you hear the pump priming before you start it?
For the other problem, the tank itself wouldn't have anything to do with it. Have you verified at the engine to see what, if any, pressure you are getting? Depending on what injection system you had, you may need an adjustable FPR or a larger pump. Can you hear the pump priming before you start it?
Originally posted by onebinky Do you have the oil pressure switch hooked up, and do you have oil pressure? If not, the computer will not allow the fuel pump relay to activate.
Originally posted by onebinky If it is VATS, the security light will illuminate on the cluster. To bypass that you can burn a custom chip, or locate the 2 wires going down the column and splice in a resistor with the same value as the pod in the key.
Thanks for the help
If the computer is from a 91 TBI, the computer will be set up to operate with VATS. You'll have to get the VATS module and bypass, or burn a custom chip to bypass VATS. I think VATS disables fuel injector pulse and spark, so that could be your problem.
Let us know how it works out
Let us know how it works out
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