i just replaced the alternator and the starter and the car still wont start!! i have tried everything. i will turn the key and it doesnt do anything?? please if you have any ideas, i really need help! its a 89 IROC 350 auto

B&M Shifter
3" flowmaster catback
SLP Headers and y-Pipe
Hotchkis Strut bar
K&N Air filters

 

Sounds like a VATS problem. Does your key have a little pellet in it? Normally when you start the car the "security" light comes on for a couple of seconds then goes out. If it stays on, it is a VATS issue. VATS does 2 things, it disables the starter enable relay located in the driver side kick panel and also disables the fuel injectors. The commonest problem is the ignition switch contacts the read the pellet in the key break requireing replacement of the ignition switch. There is an article in the technical section about VATS.

 

Well when i try to start the car the sucurity light turns on and also the service engine light. i tried two of my keys on it. the weird problem is, was that i used to be able to start my car and then when i ran it to opperating tempº and then shut it off it wouldnt start back up again, but then when i would let it sit and cool down it would start. but then the next day it just would start and it just stopped working. so i replaced the starter and it didnt help i also replaced the alternator. i can totally see it being the VATS thing but how would i fix that?

 

Are you getting any codes stored in memory. Your starting the car and running it to operating temp and then shutting it off and it won't start sounds like heat soak on the starter. I know you just changed the starter and alternator, did you also change out the starter solenoid, have you checked all the wires to the starter solenoid. Does your security light go out after about two seconds when you try to start it? Just a few questions to get an idea of your problem.

The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

yeah i replaced the starter and the soleniod, but just today i found a relay against my firewall that is copletely melted and when i would just touch it my fuel pump would come on. also all the wires were all coming out of it and touching each other. so i hoping to replace that. should i be checking any fuses?

 

Thats the fuel pump relay and for some unknown reason GM left the leads exposed down aways from the connector. Pull the connector and clean the relay pins and connector with CRC contact cleaner. Thats a common problem. The car will still start and run with the fuel pump realy out. I will take several cranks to get started if the relay is unplugged. The relay will NOT cause a "no crank" condition. Heat soak is usually seen in older starters or on cars where headers transfer more heat to the starter. A good AC Delco starter on an unmodified car will not cause the problem you describe. Heat soak is becoming more common because of the poor quality overseas parts rebuilders are using. My nieghbor, 3 chain store starters on his vette before he finally spent the extra bucks for a GM reman part. Works fine now
. You need to isolate exactly whats happening. That may require getting the car up to check for 12 volts at the small wire going to the soleniod. When you go to crank you should get 12 volts on it, that rules out VATS and anything electrical. If the soleniod "clicks" and the starter won't turn it check for voltage at the heavy strap that goes to the starter motor. If it's ok you got a crappy starter. Thsi type of problem you need 2 guys and a voltmeter or test light. LOL