Recently installed newly rebuilt 305 TPI into my 85 Z28 to replace its previous, worn-out 305 TPI that it had.

Am using the same starter, alternator and distributor as was on this car prior to rebuild. However, I did replace the module, capacitor, and rotor w/i the original distributor with all standard replacement parts.

Also, installed all new sparkplugs into the block (checked for proper gap prior to install, too) and purchased/installed brand new ignition wires for this particular engine.

Additionally, I also purchased/installed brand new battery for the car that I've even taken back to the store and had tested since its purchase and it does check out as a *Good Battery*.

Prior to my installing the distributor back into the block, I checked, double-checked, and triple-checked myself (lol) to be aboslutely sure that I was on the compression stroke of #1 TDC by removing the #1 spark plug and manually turning the crank until I could hear the air escaping from within the block and the "popping" sound of the towel being forced out from w/i the #1 spark plug hole in which I had filled and sealed with that towel for this same exact purpose.

I then carefully lined up the engraved mark on my vibration damper to the *0 point of the timing tab that is located directly overhead on the timing chain cover.

When installing the distributor, at first, I prolly played with that thing for a good half-hour or more in attempting to seat it with its rotor pointing directly at the #1 Cylinder (located at the forward-most drivers side sparkplug location on the block). However, I was not successful in ever getting it to point *directly* at #1. It seemed to me (perfectionist that I am) that the rotor was actually pointing more towards the front-center of the engine block.

I finally resigned to leaving the distributor w/ rotor pointing at this particular angle only after having removed the distributor from the block (yet again) and subsequently then turning the crank (several more times again, by hand) to see if perhaps the distributor might not line up more closely to #1 (when approaching TDC) if I aligned the vibration damper marking to the *6 BTDC mark on the timing tab off the timing chain cover. (Easily spending well over an hour on these steps..lol).

Despite all these attempts, it just seemed as though the rotor on the distributor did not want to line up perfectly. So, I went ahead and installed the distributor (one last time) with its rotor pointing more at a 'straight-ahead' angle then actually having a '22.5 degree canted-angle' over to the d/s front of the block. At this point, I didnt know what else to do. (Possibility of damper/timing chain cover marks being mis-aligned?)

I then securely installed the distributor cap with all plug wires, accordingly. Leaving only a little bit of play on the distributor shaft from under the tightened pressure of the Dist. "hold-down" bracket/bolt mounted next to it on the intake manifold.

(I did this as directed so that while the damper tab on the front of the block might allow for *base* timing, I would still be in definite need of setting *ignition* timing shortly afterward by using the proper timing gun method).

Nevertheless, I then installed the ignition wire coming off of the #1 sparkplug cylinder and attached it onto that #1 distributor cap *point* most closely located and pointing towards that same #1 cylinder. I then followed (in a clockwise direction) of attaching the plugwires to the points on the Distributor cap by using the firing sequence of 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

I double-checked, by hand, each connection (to the best of my ability) that all wires were most securely attached on both ends of all points and plugs. Also, I disconnected the EST connector (brown/white wire) at p/s firewall w/i engine bay. This looked to me like a single wire with a plastic (barrel-shaped) connector that clipped together from each end.

Okay.

First attempt at cranking/turning the engine over, it tried to start...it wanted to, I think. But, it seemed it was taking a bit too long. So, then I stopped (gave it a min....backed off, hit it again. Nuthing but a lil more *trying* and then some stumbling... backed off again, gave it a min. Then, the third time....a *click*. Also noticed a lil smoke coming from a braided ground thread between the p/s head on block and the engine bay firewall. I also noticed excessive heat present on the *pos* battery cable at battery terminal.

ROFL. I'm trying to be soooo cautious with this thing.

Next day, I jack up the car. I inspect the *fusible links* coming off the starter. I replaced one *fusible link* that looked to me that it was kinda sketchy with a brand new one.

Then I took the brand new battery back to the store from which I bought it and had them test/recharge it.

After having done this, I return here to this forum and hunt for possible causes of why a grand strap would be smoking and the matter of a battery cable getting heated.


Following reading several senior members advice to others in similar posts, I physically checked that all ground straps were secured onto the block. They all appeared to be fine. Also, I wiped down the braided ground strap with some cleaner (as it did have some grease/oil present on it). Also, I rerouted the neg battery cable ground which lead from the battery (to where I attached it to the lower alternator bracket) directly over and onto the engine block itself.

Okay.

Second attempt at cranking/starting engine....

First off, it didn't *click*. So, that led me to believe that

a) It was unlikely that the starter was shot, as more then likely, the battery was low/got low on juice the first time around.

b) Secondly, the fusible links were okay.

Also, I noticed NO smoking from the braided ground strap from between p/s head and engine bay firewall. That was a relief.

The car sputtered, and sounded more like it wanted to start then before. But, it didnt.

After several attempts, I've (once again) stopped from trying to move ahead on anything because I don't want to damage anything on this car.

I do know that the crank is moving because I can see the now *new* location of the vibration damper pulley and the vehicles belts. So, I'm thinking that the starter is engaging.

While I haven't measured fuel pressure (nor do I know exactly how to do that), I do know that fuel is in the vehicle, I can smell the odor of fuel from under the hood, and fuel has been able to travel thru the fuel lines since my first attempt at starting it. (I disconnected the two fuel lines which route between my Compressor/Power Steering pump shortly after my first failed attempt at starting and fuel was present in those lines).

I really dont want to have to pull the plenum and runners off the intake (again) to pull the fuel rail and injectors out if there is some other way I can properly verify fuel flow without having to do a partial tear down on this block.

I feel I'm so close on this...

Also, I don't know if it matters a great deal, but...the few ground leads that I do have on the back of my block I grounded together on the same bolt at the rear P/S point on my block between block and firewall.

And one last thing...Following this second and most recent attempt at getting this engine to fire, I noticed that now BOTH of my battery cables *positive and negative* at/near the terminal connections are very hot to the touch...hrmmmpf. That REALLY bothers me.

I know that this has to be something electrical in nature, but, I don't know exactly what it could be or where the next best place to look is.

Well, I know I'm in need of a freshly charged battery now..lol..so, I think I'll take my alternator up there as well to have it tested and ensure that it is in good working order as well.

I do know that I definitely don't want to look in the Yellow Pages so that I can send my baby "under the wrench" of a detached and dispassionate mechanic working in a non-descript shop somewhere to finish this (my labor of love) that I've already spent so much time and money on..lol

If there are any ThirdGen 305 TPI-Rebuild Dieties/Gawd's out there reading this extremely long and in-depth post, please help an aspiring novice get his *Z* running...lol

I've been sooooo careful up to this point, and I know I've got to be close!!!!

Help a brother out, pleazzzzz!!!!

Many, many, many Thanks!!

:hail: :hail: :hail:


pOOn

 

is your #1 plug wire tower on the cap at the same location as the rotor was pointing(more towards the center of the engine?)

 

I had to rewire all of the under hood stuff after a bad fire. Afterwards she started, but roughly with no ecm, she
(87 formula 305 4bbl) ran terrible but started. and the ground strap and battery wires where brand new and very HOT. I hooked up the computer, and it lugged horribly like it was way out of time, and would not start for nothing! I killed a battery then noticed my negative battery wire was staying very hot, even when just trying to start. and since i had just rebuilt the harness I wondred if i had gotten 2 red wires heading to the starter backwards. I swapped the wires and the car fired right up, with no noticible heating of any wires any where under the hood, or dash, (my dash is totally out) So i know it WILL run with the 2 red wires backwards. and that it causes major heat up of the battery and ground wires. just my 2c but i hope this helps...good luck & i feel you r pain

 

I'll check both of those things out 2marro and c if it doesnt straighten itself out.

Thanks very much to both of you for your speedy responses.

I'll definitely let ya'll know how it goes.

I prolly just been lookin' to hard at the forest to see the trees..lol.


Thanks again, guyz.






pOOn

 

Hey Guyz!!

Apologies for my delayed follow-up..;p

"Life stuff's" been happening and it took me longer then I thought to continue my investigation(s).

But......

She fired up!!!!! hahahaha (thats the Good Newz)

Turned out the alternator checked out ok, afterall.

My initial problem(s) had to have been sumthing either in the point location(s) ...(er, timing) or in the starter wire routing....or Both (like ya'll said).

Funny tho, when she did idle...she idled "slowly" if that makes any sense...;p.....and it seemed there was a pronounced 'lope'. It was like she couldn't idle on her own.

I know that could prolly well b in the timing too. This time 'round (when I set *base timing*) I set at *0 on the timing tab/damper.

I don't have any kind of "O my Gawd" aftermarket equip installed in the block.

What really kinda disturbs me now, tho, is I noticed (after idling only a few minutes) that her p/s manifold was *significantly* heated (very hot to my touch).

So, I then immediately checked the D/S manifold and, at best, it was slightly warm to the touch...hmmpf.

I'm thinkin' that would possibly mean some kind of blockage in the exhaust line? I dunno...

Man, I hope that's not a REAL BAD sign.

As soon as I noticed that, tho, I shut everything down.

She really didnt run for very long.

Please feel free to share any thoughts with me if you've got the time and (hopefully) are still keeping up with my progress.

Nevertheless, I'm still very grateful for the help you've given.

Now, its "back to the boards" for me.




peace ya'll,


pOOn

 

hey man, i just replaced my timing chain and wooo did it make a difference....... like when the old one was on.....it was so off timed that when i revved the engine gas came out of my exhaust pipe........so i changed all timing components and wires and spark plugs......now it nothing but power! lol dont know if this helps but yeah thought i would say cause i seen something about the timing in your post

good luck