Just acquired an '89 GTA. Yesterday when trunk was opened the hatch release motor continued running. Seemed to fail to recognize that trunk as fully open. In addition the trunk interior light remained on and the spoiler break light would light but flickered. The trunk lid failed to close properly ( and still doesn't) and because the trunk stayed open and the light stayed on the battery was (of course ! ) drained this AM. The hanes guide wiring diagrams for this GTA didn't show which circuit the truck lid release motor belonged to. Can this circuit be bypassed in the short term so the trunk can be closed until I have time to fixer up (So the battery isn't constantly dead)? If not, what circuit is this silly hatch release (Which seemed so cool at first) on and where should the troubleshooting begin?

 

If you can get the hatch open, take the rear panel off and disconnect the **** until you can get a new reversing switch (red/white wire in a single connector). Want mine? I'm switching to the manual latch ASAP because I don't feel like fixing the damn thing AGAIN. It works great but the housing broke so the hatch don't shut properly (by this meaning AT ALL)...

 

I bought the kit to repair the hatch motor from Lon at Top Down Solutions ( Look at the top advertisement at the top to the right).
Hooked mine up and no problems. I have purchased several items from him and he is by far the best to deal with. Here is the link to the 1986-91 Hatch Pull-Down Repair Kit

 

I forgot to add that the switch on the back panel controls the light, not the switch for the hatch motor. The light won't turn off unless you turn it off yourself.

 

The manual switch for the rear hatch light was used through 1988. Beginning in 1989 the hatch light is shut off by the striker-sensing switch of the hatch pull-down unit.

In Lampropeltis' situation his situation sounds like a broken gear nut. It is a plastic gear which is located inside the clear plastic part called the motor housing. The gear nut is driven by the worm-drive on the shaft of the motor. Follow these
instructions that I include with the nylon guides I manfauture to check the gear nut and replace it. The item is available from my web site as TDS 109111 gear nut.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

 

Thanks a bunch for the help Lon and Mav. I hope to pull that sucker apart on Wed. and have a look at what you described Lon. Thanks also for the offer Mav, I may take you up on it if I decide to deal with what looks like a recurring headaches.

Peace

 

Trust me, thats what you get with these power pulldowns. First it was the gear nut, now it's the motor housing, now I'm going out to get a manual latch. That'll fix it for sure...

 

I can save you a trip to the Pick-a-part yard. The manual latch has a different mount pattern and won't bolt to your body, (unless you hack the manual latch mount out of the car at the PAP. You CAN kludge yours into a manual latch by screwing or welding the latch to the frame.

Lon

 

I don't only need that.. two sets of bumper cover inserts, a rearview mirror, and the hatch release are also on my list along with the need-it-right-now steering column.

I do believe I was planning on bolting the latch to the frame anyways...

 

Well, the two new parts I ordered from Lon are in (gear nut and plastic rails) along with a new housing for the gear nut (the clear plastic piece). I got everything back together pretty well; pehaps too well. At first it was difficult to turn the key or press the interior button to pop the trunk. Upon release the sound was awfully loud and it seemed like the trunk lid would pull down too far given the alignment of the rear hatch to the body and the weezing sound of the electric motor near the end of the pull down process. I adjusted the main rail up about one millimeter (maybe 2 ) and now it lines up well and the electric motor doesn't sound like it is straining at the end. However, sometimes when I go to open the rear hatch, the trunk lid will pull right back down after releasing. I literally have to hold the deck lid up during the release to make sure it does not close back up. Any suggestions Lon would be great. I appreciate the parts and the instructions with the parts. Your service has been great. Certainly hope you are able to expand to procure more third gen parts.

Peace.

 

Replacing your hatch struts will cure the problem of it clicking closed again. When you pop the hatch the struts are supposed to open it fully without you having to do anything. When they are worn out they don't have enough power to push up all the way and clicks the reversing switch again, latching and pulling it back down.

 

My dads Iroc is having the same problem with the motor running continuously. How can we get the trunk closed???