how fast are the power window motors in the third gens supposed to be? both of mine (drv, pass) .. are in my opinion slow.. putting that into terms of some of the newer vehicles.. anyone know in sec how long it should take? Im thinking its time for new motors...

 

I know my windows are slow in my opinion too, but as long as they go up and down all the way i'm happy

 

If they're 20 yrs old, they're slow. period.
However, you might be able to just replace the carbon brushes, and have it work up to par, maybe lube the tracks too, that always helps.
This'll get you started.
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...rwindows.shtml

 

ive had five fbodies and all of them have been slow IMO. and i tried a set of window motors from a1automotive and they werent that much faster than the stock ones.

 

lol.. i was looking at the a1automotive replacement motors on ebay.. haha.. guess i won't go buying them on a whim that all will be fine..

 

by modern standards, they're slow from the factory.

you can make them quicker by upping the voltage... but i havent found a high power DC-DC converter thats cost effective enough for me to install it.

i have taken doors that are off the car and run them using bench powersupplies.... they do go faster with more current.

i tried seeing if there was a diff between running stock wiring and a "hotwire" setup where they have nice thick cables running straight to the back of the alternator/battery..... but i saw no diff in speed.


having a vert, i like my windows to go down fast... that way i can just flick the top down and GO.

i havent found a cost effective method of doing it yet though.

 

The power windows are very slow, but it isn't because they're dinosaurs. The 16 gauge wire that runs from the battery to the motors doesn't provide enough current for the motors to run as fast as they're supposed to. If you hook the motor directly up to the battery, they go way faster. There was post about this a while ago that addressed this.

Also, there was a post on a 4th gen site that may be of some interest. This is the schematic that shows how to wire this on a fourth gen. However, I spent a day or two trying to get this to work on my '91 RS, and I didn't have any luck. But I'm no electrical engineer and am not very good at reading the schematic, so if you can figure out how to get this to work on a thirdgen, please post some info (i.e. which number on the terminals of the relay to use).

Hope this helps a little.

 

Slower than me cranking them down manually
I ditched my power windows and swapped in manual regulators.

 

ever see a snail crawl?



ya same here but when they dotn wanan go up is when it sucks

 

i tried the bigger gauge wire thing...... no help.

 

Mine were slow when I got it so I went ahead & got 2 new motors with no difrence in speed. so dont waste your money on motors unless yours dont move at all.

 

Greasing helps a little. Has anyone tried the relays?

 

I read through alot of the linked posts, and the ones linked in those, and even more of them. It seems at least one guy where very happy with the resullts he got after connecting a standard automotive relay, to bypass the window switch in the same way you would bypass the headlight switch to get better lighting.

 

This circuit is similar to the headlight wiring harness upgrade. Instead of having the window motor get power thru the window switche, the power for the motors are run thru a relay. One relay for "up", one relay for "down".

 

does anyone have a page out of the shop manual for the wiring on the windows? I doubt that the power does not go through a relay.. that would be bad wiring.. mayhaps that's just old school automotive..

anyoen try swapping in 4th gen or newer truck motors?

 

here ya go.

and no, its thru the switch.

 

I considered going to 4th gen motors until I read about someone who actually tried it. Apparently, they have the same problems we do, which is why someone came up with that relay schematic.

 

what about trying to use/mount a motor from a different type of car? i know the windows on my moms thunderbird are pretty quick. wait, they dont have gears on the motors do they? if they did, could you change the gearing? lol, im ranting.

 

the only problem with bringing power from the battery is that it will be hot all the time.. no problem because you can use a switched 12volt for the trigger so the windows will still work like they should.. but would have to make sure you run the wire in a very safe manner. perhaps a bit more pleasing to the eye then grabbing power form the batter is to get it off the back of the starter.. then run it in the right hand side with the ecm harness.. or lack of harness in my LT1 case..

 

thought i would add this link in here. didn't see if it has door windows as a specific example.. but lots of stuff .. including details on how relays work.. and what you can do with them..

www.the12volt.com

anyway.. hoping someone will chiime in and say they have fast windows after doing X mod.. not sure i want to rewire the car on a hope that i gain a couple miliseconds..

 

I have a question.. Right before i parked my car, my windows stopped working.. I tore it apart some and hotwired it and the motors worked fine (still slow but normal)... would that be my relays? or just some loose wiring?

Rabbitt

 

could be corroded wire or fuse maybe..
to check for corroded wire. You have to first disconnect the hotwire job.. then measure for voltage.. if you are getting like 6v or 9 volt.. whatever then prob corroded wire.. if getting nothing.. then either very corroded or broke..

 

The 2 most common causes of slow windows are dry tracks/poorly adjusted windows and the switches. After thoroughly cleaning and lubing my regulator and window channels, I diagnosed the problem electrically. The problem was a low voltage concern, and ultimately a low current. Turns out I was seeing nearly a 1.0V drop across the window switches. Replaced them and bingo! My windows now operate at a much more acceptable speed.

 

Does anyone know anything about windows working just fine except at high speeds @90mph-120+? When ever i have been at 80 or 90mph and tryed to roll my windows up or down the wouldnt budge. Once i slowed down or came to a stop they would work fine. This has happened many times.

 

It's called air pressure. And at speeds around 90-120+, why in the **** are you not focusing solely on the road?

 

Air Brakes


So im assuming theres nothing electrical that has to do with that?

 

my guess is pressure on the glass.

hope you have a hard top.. lol
and ear plugs