If anyone could tell me what the colors of the wires going to the window switches mean, I'd really appreciate it.

I own a 1990 v6 bird, and I just need to splice into a couple of wires, and give the automation unit a constant 20amp fused 12v power source... (I assume I cannot use the cigarette lighter power? -- that would be easy)

just for anyone who's curious, its the DEI 530T window module... I got it for $50 of ebay new... that's a darn good deal.

Thanks in advance.

-Steven

 

and by splice, I mean I actually need to redirect the wires into the window unit, so it can control the windows itself, without the switches, or with the switches if it wants, (one-touch operation.)

 

Make sure you update us on how that works out. I've looked at one of those units myself more than once....

On my 91 'Bird, there are actually 4 wires going into each switch connector. What wires are you trying to find? Maybe I can look it up for you tonight.....

 

specifically I need to cut the wire going TO each motor for up/down, and feed both ends of each wire into the window controller...


think of the box being in-line along all the window switch wiring...

one thing I don't know though, where does the window switch get power from to power the windows? and does it supply power directly, or does it feed a relay in the door?

I want to do this without removing the door skin if at all possible.

I'd love to find an always-on 12v power source in the console area that's capable of powering both windows at the same time, but I may be screwed in that regard.

anyone think the ciggy can handle that much current, or should I be more adventuresome and start soldering on the fuse panel?

 

sorry, basically I need to know what all four wires do for each switch...

if it's as simple as I think, then all the switch does is reverse polarity to the motor directly, using an ACC-power relayed source...

 

From what I've read on this (wanted one-touch for a LOOOOONG time), the power goes thru the switches. No relays involved from the factory, altho some folks claim bigger power wires feeding relays will improve the window movement speed. Others say that is bunk. Since I've not tried it, can't really say.

Since the power is running thru the switches, isn't that good enough for your power source? Or do you need an extra connection? If so, I'd run a fairly heavy (14 gauge or so) gauge wire from the batt thru a relay triggered by an accessory tap wire in the fuse box. That way you would have maximum power that was triggered by turning on the key.

I'd stay away from the cig lighter if it was me, especially if yours ever gets used.

 

A little info on the unit would be useful:

the 530t needs an always-on power source... so it can roll the windows up and down without the key being in...

it lets you roll the windows up or down by switch for about 30 seconds after you pull the key out... and the alarm can activate it at ANY time.

I was looking through the fuse block, and it looks like there's a spot labeled "35A" like 35 amps... I wonder if I could somehow tap into that?

sigh, I just don't want to buy another fuse block...

what would be REALLY awesome is if there is already an always-on power source near the window switches, and they have an ACC-triggered relay that engages it, that I could simply bypass the acc-controlled relay, and use the stock power wires...

I guess I'll find out, but it's friggin' hard to follow those wires, and I don't like tearing apart wire looms and such.

yeah, if you can find out the wiring colors I'd appreciate it... I'm diggin through my chilton right now, but I never seem to have any luck..

 

http://66.83.134.202/travis/91FbodyWiring/

save all the PDFs that say dude__.PDF

 

hey thanks!

cable modem server?

hope I'm not laggin' ya.

 

work server... and the server itself should be managing bandwidth... basicly, you get whatever we're not currently using in the building.. if i start downloading stuff, you'll get around 1k a second... lol

 

I must have hit a "quiet" time - Thanks for the diagrams! Good to have for reference here at work!

 

omg... this is the best thing... that's ever happened to me!

*sniff*

I've never seen so many awesome things at once, in my entire life...

need to take a breather, then its time to print this one page out and start hackin'

Mr. Dude, do you think I could re-wire the power output from the fuse block to an always-on source? to avoid re-wiring the switches from the battery?

page 5 of 32, of file dude1d.pdf

looks like I just need to find another source for that 30-AMP "WDO CIRCUIT BREAKER"...

 

i suppose you could do that.... but the windows would then operate even with the key off.... i know thats kinda what you want... just be sure to double check the harness in the car to make SURE theres no other circuit tapping power from where you connect constant power...

 

Yeah, if you want constant power, I'd be tempted to just run a new fused line directly from the battery....

 

I ended up runnin another 10awg wire to the battery, so that's settled...

the way it works, is the switches still utilize the original ACC-engaged power source... so you cannot just walk up and use the switches to roll the windows down when the key is out...

but the alarm can do this anytime it wants

right now, I'm trying to figure out the best way to wire the module into my viper alarm...

I have heard before the the 790xv has 6 separate output channels for stuff like this... but I think this includes door locks and trunk release...

in the installation manual, I can only find reference to the channel 2 and 4 being accessed by the remote

2 is already being used by my hatch release, so that just leaves channel 4..

the typical way to wire this up is to have a single channel, (4) hooked up to the alarm, as well as a (grounded while armed,) connection.

this makes it so when I arm the alarm, the windows roll up, UNLESS I hit the (channel 4) within 5 seconds of arming, then the windows will stay down when I arm it.

you roll the windows down 2 inches by hitting the (channel 4) once, and hold (channel 4) down, the windows will roll all the way down...

so my problem is now, (before I wire this up,) is that I am a hardcore delivery driver... on the weekends at least. I arm my car about 20 times a night, and I leave my windows down nearly every time, all the time, unless it's night time, or raining. So in MY case I want the windows to by DEFAULT stay down, unless I hit the (channel 4) within 5 seconds of arming...

basically the exact opposite of how they have it set up... because I'd have to hit (channel 4=siren+aux) everytime I DIDN'T want to roll up the windows...

anyone got any ideas?

here's what I have to work with...

-channel 4 from alarm
-grounded while armed from alarm

-auxiliary input control for window module
-grounded while armed input for window module

I'm going to mess around with it for a bit, and see if I can temporarily ground the (grounded while armed input to window module,) to see if I can trick the alarm

even if I can't figure it out, I'll still be happy... cuz nothin's sweeter than when you don't have use window buttons... oh, and... when you're lazy like me

although, can I still be considered lazy if I actually went through all the work to install automated windows? that was a pain... because it wasn't as straight-forward as I thought.. but then I figured it out... the worst part was dealing with cramming all the wiring and module into the console under the switches... (yes it fits fine!)

I'll let you guys know what happens... until then, maybe you guys can help me brainstorm how to achieve my default windows setting...

Ideally I'd rather have the windows do NOTHING when I arm/disarm... and have TWO aux channels to roll up or down... or like I push the button once to roll up, and twice to roll down...

window module guide: (page 7)
http://www.directechs.com/guides/man...N530T_1-00.pdf

alarm owners manual: (page 13)
http://www.directechs.com/guides/man...G554V_7-02.pdf

alarm installation guide: (pages 7, and 33)
http://www.directechs.com/guides/man...iper/N554V.pdf

heeellpp

thanks,

Steven

oh yeah, one-touch windows own regular windows! muahhaa, for some reason I had to up the resistance setting of the passenger window... but the driver window was fine... the pass window was always a bit slower, maybe the motor is different? probably the car was wrecked a long time ago or something.

 

According to a DEI video I had to watch when I was an installer they recommended running the power for the window modules directly from the battery.

you could always use a 10awg amp kit that already has a inline fuse holder on it.

 

didnt see you last post, tried to delete mine but wouldnt delete...oh well.

 

it's cool... man the only thing I'm trying to figure out is how to wire the system to NOT do anything when I arm/disarm the alarm...

I wish I could use channel 4 to roll up AND down the windows...

damn circuit city... they forgot to give me the AUX harness that has channel 4 on it...

I had to buy some parts from an electronics store to figure it out... since I couldn't find the exact connector...

 

Hey MrDude_1, those PDF's look familiar.

 

should they read trickster1-6.pdf instead?

wherever they came from, they are a godsend... I'll be using them forever...

thanks

 

hey, how would I accomplish this without a microcontroller???

I have one for my car which controls my stereo... but technically it's not in my car right now...

any thoughts?

 

tricksters the one who named them.


hes the one you need to thank for getting them... i just threw them up there.


you think they're useful to you? they saved me over $700.... if i didnt have them, theres no way in heck i could have wired my LS1 in...

 

on a side note, it runs the relays for the windows off of that power wire, right? why dont you just wire in a high current switch(in otherwords, big) into the window power wire?

flick it off on deliverys, and the alarm cant roll them up.... then click it on the rest of the time for autorollup.

 

I could put a switch on the armed output to the window module... I guess... but man, that would be a tad bit ghetto...

I was just hoping that maybe someone in here could suggest a relay device that would achieve a similar result without the microcontroller.

 

dangit... new problem

apparently the alarm outputs an 'armed' signal when I remote start the car... so my windows roll up anyways...

what's happening is the alarm is actually sending a signal to ground the starter kill relay, which is the same wire that signals the window module (installed according to both manuals) I even used the appropriate diode to make sure the starter kill relay doesn't trigger the windows...

so for sure the alarm sends an 'arm' pulse when the car remote starts... why the hell would DEI design the alarm to do this? especially when they know people are going to wire up these window modules....