I have an 88 Iroc with a .040 over 350 with tuned port injection. If my car sits more than a day or so without being driven the battery goes dead. I bought a new battery and still have the same problem. Today I went through checking wires and connections and found that there is an orange wire that comes off the positive battery cable about six inches from the battery terminal. It has a weatherpack connector that then goes into a bunch of wires. The weatherpack connector is burnt up. What is this wire and is there supposed to be some kind of fuse in this. Does this seem like it could be my problem. Thanks for your help!

 

There should be two of those connectors there, they are fusible links connectors.

 

Its right after the fuseable link. The orange wire comes off the wire that goes to the alternator.

 

Does it look something like this?

 

Yes it does, it is either c145 or c148

 

They are both fusible links connectors.

 

I had this problem once, I messed up a new battery. I figured out something was using a little current while the car was off.
After a while I found out that the light swich on the trunk was left on

Make sure nothing is on while the car is sitting, for example, lights, stereo, amps.

Good luck

 

Go buy a 10 dollar multimeter at Wally World, and read the instructions to set it up to read DC amps in a 0-100 range. With the ignition off, start pulling fuses one at a time and check for amperage between the terminals in the fuse block where each fuse plugs in. You'll get low or no readings from most plugs, but eventually you're going to get to one that shows over 5 amps, in your case probably 25 amps or so. That's going to be your problem circuit. Just read what that fuse powers and start with that system.

I've got a current drain in the circuit that operates the door locks, interior lights and cigarette lighter. In a weekend it'll pull the battery down if I leave the fuse in. It's probably the door locks. Until I get it fixed, I just leave the fuse out, and the car always starts.

 

Thanks redliterunner, i will try that tonight.

 

As a side note to that, they don't have a $10.00 multimeter at Wally world that will read in the 0-100 AMP range. Most multimeters will only go to a max of 10 AMPS without causing damage to the meter. For something in that range you would need a Ampmeter. However he is correct in the method he described for checking a battery drain.

 

are you sure u know how to use the meter? U put an ampmeter in series...

 

get a test light undo your negative battery cable and hook the test light up inline between the negative battery cable and the negative post on the battery if you have a drain the test light will light up. brightness depending on how bad the drain is.

 

That method might tell him he has a drain but it won't tell him where it is coming from.

 

I think I have found the problem. The positive battery cable going to the starter is melted in 2 spots from the headers. Going to get a new battery cable tomorrow and try that. New one will be routed much farther away from headers. Prior to this on a few ocassions the volt gauge would read a little low and then a few minutes later bounce back up. This happened a few times. So Ithink the battery cables been going for a little while.

 

YOU USE THE SAME METHOD REDLITE SAID JUST USE A TEST LIGHT INSTEAD OF A METER. ITS TELLING YOU YOU HAVE A DRAIN SAME THING AS A METER ITS JUST EASIER TO LOOK AT THE LIGHT THAN TRYING TO LOOK AT METER.