why does the hatch motor heat up after I plug it in
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Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Mass
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
why does the hatch motor heat up after I plug it in
I have been having hatch motor problems and the motor get too hot to touch after about 5 minutes after I plug it in. It doesnt work at all and the relay back there just clicks when I plug it in. The relay in the console just clicks when I hit the switch as well. is this a possible wiring problem(which I doubt) or is the motor assembly fried? the last time it worked was when I put it in and closed the hatch and the motor wouldnt shut off. it just kept trying to pull the hatch down. I think the breaker tripped and then I opened the hactch and just unpluged it. This is a 1992 style motor. I have a another 92 hatch motor assembly coming in the mail and I dont want to ruin it likeI did to this one. There are not many of these left out there. what can be the problem here
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,034
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi w/Disc
Good description of the problem! It sounds like your "reversing switch" is bad or has bad wiring. Basically, it sounds like the hatch motor never knows that that hatch has pulled all the way down and as such, keeps trying to pull it in more. Now, it can't pull it in any more and this extra effort is translated into heat and an extra current draw. Check here for info on purchasing a reversing switch:
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/pro...products_id=98
This may not be needed if the new hatch switch is OK. If you pull the plastic shroud from the back of the trunk area and look at the hatch motor assembly, you'll see a black chunk of plastic with a lever sticking out the side. It's a small lever, less than a centimeter long, but the black chunk of plastic is hard to miss. This is the switch I reference in the link above.
I'd recommend installing the new hatch pull-down assy and seeing if everything looks good with the hatch open. i.e.: it shouldn't be trying to pull the hatch down until you close it. Then, close the hatch and make certain everything is cool (which I believe it will be). If you have anything happen out of the ordinary, just pull the 20A LID fuse in the fuse block. This will kill power to the hatch motor and then you can manually open it wil the key and disconnect it.
under normal circumstances, the electronics in the replacement hatch assy will not be damaged if you pull the fuse quickly enough (aim for 10 seconds or less.).
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/pro...products_id=98
This may not be needed if the new hatch switch is OK. If you pull the plastic shroud from the back of the trunk area and look at the hatch motor assembly, you'll see a black chunk of plastic with a lever sticking out the side. It's a small lever, less than a centimeter long, but the black chunk of plastic is hard to miss. This is the switch I reference in the link above.
I'd recommend installing the new hatch pull-down assy and seeing if everything looks good with the hatch open. i.e.: it shouldn't be trying to pull the hatch down until you close it. Then, close the hatch and make certain everything is cool (which I believe it will be). If you have anything happen out of the ordinary, just pull the 20A LID fuse in the fuse block. This will kill power to the hatch motor and then you can manually open it wil the key and disconnect it.
under normal circumstances, the electronics in the replacement hatch assy will not be damaged if you pull the fuse quickly enough (aim for 10 seconds or less.).
Last edited by PhLaXuS; Sep 16, 2005 at 10:14 PM.
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