******* VATS bypass
******* VATS bypass
Some here may scoff at this but..... We do what works sometimes.
My 89 T/A with VATS had a bad ignition cylinder. Rather that do the VATs dance, here is what I did.
I purchased a regular/ non-VATS ignition cylinder.
I removed the bad cylinder (the tumblers were worn out).
I cut the 2 orange VATS wires and pulled them out of the steering column, set that aside for now.
I installed the new non VATs cylinder, and put the steering column back together.
To check my work...Insert the new key and turn on...the SECURITY light comes on...but stays on. Indicating the ECM didnt rceive the ohm reading from the original key.
......
Heres the ******* part
Under the steering column, I re-attached the 2 orange wires, soldered, and taped them up (with the old, bad cylinder still attached)
I put the original key into the old cylinder and taped it into place.
I used zip ties to secure the old cylinder under the dash, to tidy things up...replace the under dash kick panel.....
DONE!
What I have is...
The original key is ALWAYS inserted into the original cylinder, stowed away under the dash. My new, non-chipped key works like any other non-VATS key.
My 89 T/A with VATS had a bad ignition cylinder. Rather that do the VATs dance, here is what I did.
I purchased a regular/ non-VATS ignition cylinder.
I removed the bad cylinder (the tumblers were worn out).
I cut the 2 orange VATS wires and pulled them out of the steering column, set that aside for now.
I installed the new non VATs cylinder, and put the steering column back together.
To check my work...Insert the new key and turn on...the SECURITY light comes on...but stays on. Indicating the ECM didnt rceive the ohm reading from the original key.
......
Heres the ******* part
Under the steering column, I re-attached the 2 orange wires, soldered, and taped them up (with the old, bad cylinder still attached)
I put the original key into the old cylinder and taped it into place.
I used zip ties to secure the old cylinder under the dash, to tidy things up...replace the under dash kick panel.....
DONE!
What I have is...
The original key is ALWAYS inserted into the original cylinder, stowed away under the dash. My new, non-chipped key works like any other non-VATS key.
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,581
Likes: 3
From: So Cal
Car: 89 IROC Z28
Engine: 357 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
I disabled my VATS by measuring the resistance of the key, disconnected the plug from the Ignition cylinder, got a resistor (or a couple in Parallel) to measure the same and soldered them to the ECM side of the connector. Now the car starts fine all the time.
Last edited by ringo234; Oct 2, 2006 at 01:38 AM.
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 785
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, Florida
Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 IROCZ
Engine: L98 350, mini ramed and camed
Transmission: T56 6 speed manual
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3:73 limited slip
Somebody did the EXACT same thing on my first camaro a 90 rs. We noticed the lock under the dash with the stock key. Then I would start the car with the aftermarket key in the column. Adam :-)
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 992
Likes: 1
From: Sacramento, California
Car: 92 RS
Engine: a slow one
Transmission: a crunchy one
Axle/Gears: a whiny one
if you were already doing it along those lines
it'd be just as easy to just chop the excess off the OEM key leaving just the resistor, and soldering it into place.
it'd be just as easy to just chop the excess off the OEM key leaving just the resistor, and soldering it into place.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post





