Changing out cap and rotor as part of a general tune up on an 88 Formula L98 with 20k. Everything is a little "tight" as the car has sat. Stupid Question = how do you get the stock rotor off?? Replacement looks like it might snap/lock onto the distributor shaft so do you have to destroy the original to get it off? It doesn't come off with any normal persuasion. My next step is to dremel it off but I figured I'd ask before regretting it.

Thanks

 

some get stuck but all it needs is to be pulled straight up. There is a groove on the top of the dist. shaft that the rotor sits in. whatever you do, dont bend the shaft trying to remove the rotor.

 

Put a block of wood on the rotor and tap tap tap it with a hammer. Dont smack it.

Now try to wiggle it like a see saw. If it doesnt loosen up tap tap tap again this time on the edges like a see saw.

These are prone to stick. It is a tight fit and the rotor has a metal clip that holds it agains the shaft. It has now rusted and is bound to the shaft. Tou need to break the rust free.

BE CAREFUL, be patient it will come off.

 

I have the weird cap and rotor, and my rotor has 2 itty bitty bolts in it, like 7 mm's, that you have to undo. Yours is either a pull off, or those 2 little bolts. shouldnt be too hard.

 

mine had 2 little screws on the front and backside of the cap and the rotor just pops off on mine

 

joejakegrace, i take it you have the push on type rotor & not the one that is held on by 2 small screws or bolts.

when i find one of the push on rotors that is stuck, i take a shop towel & grab the rotor & give it a good twist, that shears the little piece of plastic inside the rotor off. the old rotor then comes right off, remove the piece of plastic from the slot in the dist shaft, put a very small amount of grease on the shaft where the rotor fits & push the new rotor on.

 

I got it!! Thanks. I actually went with my approach before I read these and it was just a little oxidized/stuck on with the metal clip. I dremeled a cut down the side of it and twisted it gently - it came right off in pieces. Put a tiny tab of anti seize on the inside of the new unit. 8 new plugs (and hands full of burn scars from the headers), new wires, new rotor, cap, coil, AND....DRUM ROLL...IAC - which it turns out was the culprit to my cold idle problem 50% of the time.

Saw the piece in HIPO Pontiac on testing the IAC, did that and it seemed to work - put it back in the block and car wouldn't start!!! (ran rough with it connected and out) - bought a new one and Wahla!!