Alternator short/Alt guage low
02-15-2007, 07:34 PM
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Alternator short/Alt guage low
Hey everyone, I am hopping that some one out there can help me out!! I have a 1989 Camaro Iroc Z-28. It first started months ago. The alternator gauge would not move off of 13volts (which is normal). Then it would jump down to 6volts, then back to 13volts. I had the alternator checked 3 times when readings were normal and low. All test showed normal voltage readings of 13.5volts. One rainy day my gauge went low until it finally dropped into the red and never came up and the car died. Put a new battery in and problem was not solved. Replaced the alternator 2 times. Voltage would stay at 13 or higher, but moved up and down as you drove. If you turned the head lights, and blower motor on it would drain allot of power and the alt gauge would drop down to 6 volts, but slowly come up, but the gauge would not read normal 13volts. It would go up and down. If you turned another assecory on, the gauge would go in the red. The thing the car would do the most it when the dash lights were on you would here a small crackle and the power would drop and at the same time the dash lights would dim, with the alt gauge volts dropping down to 6 volts. Some times the volts would not come back up. I have killed two alternators in the last 6 months, and that is just from starting the car at home, or driving around the block. 2/21/2007 I think I have pin pointed my problem being in the dash.. I pulled my dash apart and checked all my gauges and they tested OK. When I turn my lights on (car not running) the temp gauge goes up. Even when the car is running, turning on my lights affects the volt gauge. I think my lights are affecting all my accesories??? This action always repeats when lights are turnd on. Most of all, My dimmer switch does not work properly. I was thinking of changing my head light switch. I pulled the cover off and can't see what is the proper way to take it out. Is it accesed another way?? ( Please Help)
Last edited by m_domenic; 02-21-2007 at 08:25 PM. Reason: New Update
02-16-2007, 07:36 AM
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
KEEP IT CLEAN - YOUR CONNECTIONS THAT IS
First, your “alternator gauge” A.K.A. voltmeter
has been inaccurate as evidenced when your car
was operating properly, however the voltmeter
was jumping from 6 to 13 volts.
But let’s solve the important problem first.
You wrote you heard a crackle when the voltage
dropped. That is consistent with a bad connection
in a high current line. You should go over all such
connections in your car. Make sure they are clean
and tight. You should disassemble the connections
to make sure they are clean where metal touches metal
because they might look OK on the outside but be
arc-corroded on the inside.
Now after your power loss is solved you’re ready to
check your voltmeter. Compare it to a piece of test
equipment to make sure it reads accurately.
Now the only proper way to terminate a voltmeter
is to run 2 wires from the meter to the bat.
Manufacturers don’t do this to save time and money.
The throw it on the nearest pos. an neg. points
in the dash they can find.
.
Happy Racing !
— If people drove any slower
they’d be going backwards —
.
02-16-2007, 09:40 PM
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Thanks for the tip. I was planning on changing my power lines (battery to alt and starter) I gave them a good shake and the alt gauge shot up past 13.5 volts!!. Now I have to find a parts store that sells this power cable. My alt cable goes to the battery and the starter. Any hints to where I could or should by this cable at?? Thanks for your info, I have a good feeling that when I change the cable the volts will read normal,
Thanks!!!
Thanks!!!
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