This is probably an easy fix, but can someone tell me how to fix this problem,

Sometimes the 89 formy will start in park sometimes not and i have to shift to neutral to start it. Yesterday it would not start in either Park or Neutral and i was stranded for a while.

Is there a small switch in the shifter that i can replace or clean off somehow?

Thanks

 

OKAY now the car wont start at all in either park or neutral, no clicking from the starter, no nothing.

How can I test to see if the Starter is bad ? I dont know if this problem is the starter, the ignition switch, or the gear interruption switch in the shifter.

HELP?

 

well it's most likely the switch. if the car started fine in neutral but wouldn't do anything in park then it's the switch. if the starter or ignition switch was bad the wouldn't have started in any gear. there is a way to check. unplug the switch on the shifter and jump the p/n wires then start the car. i think the switch has four wires 2 for backup and two p/n. it's very easy and a very easy fix.

 

neutral safty switch most likely

 

Thanks, so the neutral safety switch is located on the shifter I assume.


For years the car would occasionally not start in Park. I would shift to Neutral as back up plan. now nothing...... it must be this switch.

Does anyone recommend a way to clean the switch , or do you have to buy a new one. If so and how much does this part run? Hopefully its not a stealership part.

Okay jumping the wires. I guess i can figure that out .----somehow with out starting a fire... what to i just cram a thin wire in each plug hole ? and turn the key ?

 

yeah that should work or a paper clip.
the switch is farely cheap and you should be able to get it aftermarket with no problem.

 

Be sure to use a heavy gauge wire when you "jump" the connections. ( A paper clip should only be used as a last resort ) The wires run to the starter and are quite large. Jump the Purple and Yellow wires and then turn the ignition to see if it fires up for you.

It doesn't look like it's going to be "easy" to clean the contacts up on this thing. Taking it appart is one thing - but getting it back together could be tricky ! If you need one I'll sell you this one for $8 + shipping.



Good Luck !!

 

Hey thanks for the picture ! So do I unplug that part with all the wires coming out and just connect a wire from the yellow to purple terminals INSIDE the plug. Then crank ?. just confused as to the other 3 wires not being plugged in when i do this.

Or do they not matter?

 

yeah they don't matter you are just checking to make sure thats your problem. if it is the car should start.

 

Well i finally had time to look into it, I unplugged the plug from the switch. i placed a screwdriver tip across the pink and yellow ?wire (the heavy gauge wires) and i turn the key and nothing. tommorrow i willl stick a wire in there like you said, i didnt have one handy at the moment, i figured the screwdriver would accomplish the same thing..am i wrong in thinking that?

I did get sparks where the screwdriver was touching when i turned the key and slightly moved the screwdriver..

So i am assuming that because of this the ignition switch is atleast good.

but still no start , not even a click from the starter, nothing. sparks at the plug but no nothing else,

what could this be. i dont care if i have to bypass this safety switch, i need this car to crank?

help,,, how can i do a quick test of the starter? i think its the starter.

 

John Ri not to disrespect you, and i appreciate the offer, but I ordered a new switch from a1, probably cost more but it was easier.

OKay more clues. I noticed as i was in the car with the key on ACC on, the power windows seemed slower than normal. like a weak battery. The optima red top is only 2 years old but the car was also sitting idle for about 3 months. I wonder if I am not only having a switch problem, but a weak battery, old cable, and maybe a rusted seized up starter as well.

this crap is puzzling the heck out of me.

So can i rule out the ignition switch and VATS being bad if i have fire at the yellow wire at P/N switch ?

 

does your vats light come on when you try to start it? if it was a vats problem the light would stay lit when you where trying to crank it. ok i looked at the wiring for your car and you should be jumping the purple wire and the green/white wire. this is the wiring for an 89 firebird. it still sounds to me like it's the switch and nothing else. if you where jumping the yellow and purple wires that might be why it didn't start.
i hope this helps

 

Well ----> I never heard of such a !!! <Just kiddin' !!!>

None taken my friend - none at all !

VAT's is a fun system to play with. When I put a 3.1 in my 87 Coupe I swapped the entire electrical system as well just so I didn't have to deal with the VATS crap ! When I first got the 91 that the 3.1 came from it had a VATs problem and I can remember having to figure it out. ( PITA ! )

The picture of the P/N switch I posted is from an earlier F-Body without VATs. As long as you are jumping the 2 heaviest gauge wires you should be fine. I wasn't even considering the VATs since problems with that system are apparent from the dash warning indicators.

Good catch 89N10GTA In the VATs cars the Yellow wire should be replaced by the Green/White wireat the P/N switch. (terminal "F" ) The SOLID Grn wire & the Blu wires are for the reverse lights. I think Org/Blk is to the ECM and the Blk/Wht is for ground.


To rule out the VATS and Ignition all you need to do is get a Voltmeter or test light. If you turn the ignition to "START" and get battery voltage at the Green/White wire ( Power to P/N switch) VATs and Ignition are good.

If the car is not running the windows are ALWAYS slow. Treating the seal to keep it soft and treating the glass with something like RainX will help.

 

Success !

Thanks for the diagram, You guys are awesome, Well i feel partly like a dumbarse, but heres what happened.

The very slow window thing got me thinking. weak battery, but i had discounted this originally because I had hooked jumper cables up from another running vehicle to my firebird and it didnt help a bit. I thought even with some juice the starter would atleast be sluggish, click or something. Also I have a fairly new Optima red top. So much for those things being worth the money.

Well i have 4runner that needs an alternator and runs around on battery so i decided to pick up a battery to carry as a spare and also just to have and it to ensure i had a brand new battery while testing the firebird. I unhooked the optima and noticed some corrosion on the terminal , not to bad but still. Slapped the new battery in and turned the key, the acc lit up brightly. so i plugged the Neutral safe switch back in and turned the key and i got a loud CLick at the starter and then Everything went dead. No ACC no power anywhere after that. Heart sank knowing that I probably torched the entire wiring system and was doomed. I unhooked the + on the Battery and then reattached it and I got power back. Wierd. then turned the key and slide the plastic tab on the NS switch around and when it hit the right spot she fired up. The spin techs were music to the ears after 3 months...lol

So it was a combo of Battery weak, corrosion as a result of car in storage and bad NS switch. But atleast this finally made me get in and fix this switch and i learned alot about that area of the car. Now i am just waiting on the brown santa to bring my switch.

yes i have purple wire and a green& white heavier (10 gauge) wires at the switch.