My headlight switch harness connector is melted pretty good. I was wondering why my lights sucked, had to fiddle with the **** to get my lowbeams to turn on. On bumps and stuff they would occassionally turn off.

Now how is the best way to fix this?

I could go to a junkyard and pull off the harness but at the local junkyards they seem to be out of Camaro's for some reason, found a firebird that I pulled my driver and passenger side mirrors out (also had to fix those!, mirror motor broken, loose and rattled). I could probably pull the harness from that.

The only downside is the *** there is into overcharging for anything and they pull it not you.

The second idea I got from my brother who basically thinks that the connector is just a nice place holder for all the connectors and that I could probably just buy some connectors that are insulated and attach them that way.

Sort of now moving towards that option... Would putting fuses there prevent a similar burn out next time, willing to extend the wires there to attach what looks like 6-7 fuse holders, and what amperage should I go for in those fuses. Want to minimize the ghetto wiring but right now I got enough money to get wires and connectors plus the fuse holders.

Give me some input!

 

Autozone carries the part, ordered it from them since 23.99 plus tax is still better than having to deal with the junkyard. But would my brother's previous idea work?

 

what most probablly caused the problem is over the years the terminals degraded and didn't make good connection which would explian when you hit a bump they would go on and off. When terminals dont make a good connection they get hot, sometimes verry hot. I see this all the time at work. I would just replace the connector and terminals and you'll be fine.

 

Sadly the autozone connector doesn't have all the connectors my original has. my car came with all the options so not sure if maybe this is just for the base car/ going to create mine. any suggestions?

 

Bought some 16 gage wire, some 14-16 gage female insulated connectors and some butt connectors; cut 8 wires since I counted 8 wires going into the old burned up connector and I counted 8 separate connectors. Hopefully I didn't miss anything but I'll look it over again tomorrow after work. Although I won't install my new makeshift connector until Monday when I'm off work.

Also bought 5 atc fuse holders and since the wire is only rated to 20 amps, got a set of 5, 20AMP fuses.

I can always use the wire and the connectors for other junk but man this is about as expensive as getting that harness. Maybe I should have just gone to the junkyard but... eh.

Anyone think that this won't work? Should I buy 3 more fuse holders/wires?

 

Still need help, wired everything up and I broke the plastic nut thing. Anything to fix that? Seems i'll be taking another trip to the junkyard.

 

Went to the junkyard and got another headlight switch connector. Also got the plastic nut I broke plus an extra!

This connector matches my car a lot more but my old switch connector had this brown wire with an orange 'line' running through it. Not sure what that does. But I did trace the wire to my car radio hole where the wires are cut and taped to prevent any short.

Anyways, here is the problem if it even is one:
When I pull the **** once it turns on the parking lights. When I pull it out all the way my high beams come on. There doesn't seem to be a low beam option.

Where could I have screwed up?

Can someone confirm something as well: when I pull the **** the first time should the parking lights come on? I think yes.

If I pull again I think the low beams should come on.

Now all the way out should activate the highbeams.

When I fiddle with it I only get the parking and the highbeams.

Before with my old switch and why I started this project was because my parking lights came on and my low beams came on if I carefully pulled it out and then pushed in a bit. My high's had stopped working.

...

 

Problem solved sort of; I found that that if the stearing wheel is tilted up all the way it will turn on the lights the last way they were set; so if the high beams (in my case) were last on then when pulling the switch and fiddling with the turn signal switch will do nothing. If you tilt it to an almost even setting you and if you pull the switch the high beams will be on again but now by 'clicking' the turn signal; it will turn the high beams on and off.

So everything is now working. had also gone to the junkyard and got a replacement defroster switch. The parts were from a 92 camaro so now I have some yellow switches!