When I turn my wipers on, it blows the fuse. I am pretty sure that this means my motor is bad, does anyone else know of another problem that would cause this? Before spending the $ to get a new one, I want to make sure this is the problem.

Thanks in Advance.

 

Disconnect wires from wiper motor and turn switch on - fuse blows = wiring problem, fuse doesn't blow = wiper motor/module problem
Corky

 

That makes sense, and I should have thought to do that. I will give it a try and see what I find out.

 

Well, pulling the wire off of the bottom of the wiper motor (not the one on the electric board) makes it so the fuse doesn't blow when I turn the wiper switch on.

So I replaced the motor, and the fuse still blows. I took my column apart (I had to tighten it up anyways) to see if any of the wires had been pinched. Everything looked fine. Has anyone ever had a bad switch cause problems?

I may end up running a power wire from the battery directly to the motor to see if it works. If it does, I think I have norrowed the problem down to the columns switch or wiring bettween that and the motor.

Has anyone here ever had a switch go out though? Are there any other tips for testing the wires between the column and the motor?

 

You are on the right path. Find schematics of how the switch is wired and then simulate its action with the motor bypassing the switch. if operation is ok then you have a fault in the switch, if not then its a fault in the wiring. I would check all your ground connections first though

 

Here is something to consider ...

Maybe the motor is fine but the LOAD on the motor is excessive. So maybe the 'motor' itself is not causing the fuse to blow but the LOAD on the motor causes the fuse to blow.

Also, if you run a separate wire from the battery, you should have an appropriately rated fuse 'in-line' so that you are testing the 'test wire' against the 'original wiring'. Hold the other variables (fuse for example) the same.

If you ran a separate wire without a fuse and the motor functioned (even with an excessive LOAD) this does NOT mean the 'system' is drawing the appropriate current. It might be drawing excessive current but no fuse is present to blow. So the FUSE integrity is what will tell you if an alternate wiring system is helping.

Maybe there is a misalignment in the linkage, the joints need lubricated or the joints need replaced.

 

Well, I have verified that the switch in my column is bad. The wires themselves are fine. The auto parts stores want $160 for a new one, and that doesn't even include the lever. That is just for the wiring up to the lever. Has anyone ever separated the wiring from the turn signal/washer/cruise switch and replaced them? Should I just search out a completely new lever from a salvage yard?

Also, after putting my electronic wiper cover back on, the center pivioting cancel switch broke

How do I align that properly when I get a new one and am placing the new electronic cover on the motor...or is there a way to fix it?