Quick VATS question... Did bypass, still doesn't work!
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 786
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
Car: 92 Formula
Engine: L98
Transmission: A4
Quick VATS question... Did bypass, still doesn't work!
To keep it short....
This is VATS issue #2 for me on this car.
On the '92, a while back I wired a set of resistors (matched identically to the key, 1.87kohms) to the 2 wire connector. It has worked fine for 6 years, but for the last couple, it started working intermittently.
A few weeks ago it stopped working altogether, so I figured that I'd replace the string of resistors.
Before installing, the resistance matched the key...
After installing, the resistance when measured across the resistors is 1.6xkohm.
I removed the resistors to make sure one of them did get toasted by the soldering iron, and the resistance was again 1.87kohm.
I reinstalled the resistors and the car still will not start, the security light is still on...
I checked the fuse for VATS and it's good.
I've got a Chiltons manual, but the wiring diagram colors don't really match what I'm seeing under the dash, so I'm at a loss when looking for things... not sure where the VATS module is, etc... i The only thing I've been able to pin down are those two wires!
Am I missing something here?
Why would the resistance drop when connected?
Can you suggest anything for me to check out?
Thanks!
This is VATS issue #2 for me on this car.
On the '92, a while back I wired a set of resistors (matched identically to the key, 1.87kohms) to the 2 wire connector. It has worked fine for 6 years, but for the last couple, it started working intermittently.
A few weeks ago it stopped working altogether, so I figured that I'd replace the string of resistors.
Before installing, the resistance matched the key...
After installing, the resistance when measured across the resistors is 1.6xkohm.
I removed the resistors to make sure one of them did get toasted by the soldering iron, and the resistance was again 1.87kohm.
I reinstalled the resistors and the car still will not start, the security light is still on...
I checked the fuse for VATS and it's good.
I've got a Chiltons manual, but the wiring diagram colors don't really match what I'm seeing under the dash, so I'm at a loss when looking for things... not sure where the VATS module is, etc... i The only thing I've been able to pin down are those two wires!

Am I missing something here?
Why would the resistance drop when connected?
Can you suggest anything for me to check out?
Thanks!
Re: Quick VATS question... Did bypass, still doesn't work!
Is the car cranking over?
If it is are the injectors firing?
If they are not firing get a VATS bypass module, it gets hardwired to the blue wire from your VATS module which is located behind the ECM under the passenger side of the dash(at least thats where i found mine)
the module only cost me 30 bucks and worked right away, I have a 91 firebird with a 30Hz system
If it is are the injectors firing?
If they are not firing get a VATS bypass module, it gets hardwired to the blue wire from your VATS module which is located behind the ECM under the passenger side of the dash(at least thats where i found mine)
the module only cost me 30 bucks and worked right away, I have a 91 firebird with a 30Hz system
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 786
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
Car: 92 Formula
Engine: L98
Transmission: A4
Re: Quick VATS question... Did bypass, still doesn't work!
Thanks for the response....
The car isn't cranking over at all...
Will the VATS bypass module still bypass the whole system altogether?
The car isn't cranking over at all...
Will the VATS bypass module still bypass the whole system altogether? Thread
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