If you have a battery kill switch chances are you have relocated your battery. I am trying to figure out hat switch I need and how to safely and correctly run my alternator charging lead without causing any damage.
How did you do it?




I first ran a basic two post 20 amp continuous 125 amp surge switch http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku and hooked the alternator charging wire to the battery side of the switch. Thinking this may not be sufficient and I will burn out the switch I wanted to upgrade to the 4 post 300 amp continuous 2000 amp surge switch with alternator disconnect http://store.summitracing.com/partde...-74102&FROM=MG.

I called Moroso after reading the instructions and they say this still isn't sufficient and the feedback of the alternator may fry the kill switch (apparently the alt disconnect post is only rated to 20 amps). WTF?
They say I need this Painless relay http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku and that will solve it.


My questions:

Can I just use the higher rated 4 post kill switch and take the Painless recommendation as a sales call?

Or, Can I use the painless relay and keep the basic 20 amp switch?

 

Sorry I can't answer some of your questions, but I just used one of these...
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=1464

Wiring diagram here...
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Images/L/4430-inst.jpg

Flip the switch, kills the car instantly, no run-on, no releasing the smoke from the alt.

To me, it looks like the second switch you posted cuts the battery circuit and the alt circuit, but doesn't leave a place for the power generated by the alt winding down to go. The kit I have comes with a resistor.