I've read conflicting answers for my questions. I'd really love to get the same answer more than once! (please don't post your answer twice..

Regarding the fusible link by the POS bat terminal, I want to eliminate it as part of the Big Three upgrade. I will be using a 4awg wire and 110-ish fuse from alt to battery. The 2 weatherpack wires that come from the link, I've read, can be run directly from the POS bat cable without a fuse. Some folks have said there is a fuse for each wire downstream, others have said there is not. Does someone have a definitive answer? I have the wiring diagram but it's a tad confusing. I believe the red little weatherpack wire does run right up into a fuse by the radiator. I'm not real sure about the other one that disappears into the harness.

I'd really appreciate anyone who can help me put this to rest.
Thank You,
Eric

 

Perhaps a picture or two will help.

What I see just by looking at it, are 2 wires (red & orange) come from fusible link (or simple junction); the red goes thru a connector, into a split loom with a different orange wire, and up to a 20a fuse by the radiator. The orange wire in question comes out from the FL/SJ and into factory electrical tape with 3 other wires, 1 orange, 2 red-the one orange wire possibly is the same orange wire from the fuse by the radiator.

My most simple answer is that the orange wire IS fused somewhere down the line, quite possibly being tied in with an orange wire running back up to the 20a by the rad. Obviously, 1 of the 2 wires is fused, which still leaves me to wonder if I can simply run the orange wire (as I'll do with the red) directly off the positive battery connection.

Does ANYONE know anything more about this?

 

Looking at the diagram I can tell you a few things.
1. The orange wire is not fused anywhere but the fuseable link.
2. 120A is absolutely pointless. The point of a fuse is to pop before too much current kills your component or starts a fire. 40A would be better.
3. The fuse by the radiator is the switched power lead to activate the two fan relays.

The system works like this: Each fan has two connections Pin A & B. Pin A is tied directly to ground on both and Pin B goes to Pin A on each respective relay.
On relay Pin E is the 12V from the fuseable link.

On Pin D of the relay is your switched 12v from that Fuse by the radiator and Pin F is the switched Ground that actually activates the realy.

So when Pin F on the relay gets grounded either by the fan switch, A/C switch or Leprechauns, it activates the realy and connects Pin E to Pin A turning your fan on.

So long story short. yes you can bypass the fuseable link by running a wire (THE SAME GAUGE as the orange wire) through a fuse to the orange wire. Make sure you solder the wires and use heat shrink tubing to prevent corrosion. DO NOT feed that little wire with a 4 gauge wire. You will be asking for an electrical fire.

 

SO much for the help!

-the 4 awg wire is from alt to bat + ONLY, the amp is 105 amps, hence the 110 amp fuse (assumes 4awg can hold 150 amps)
-you say the red wire IS fused, and I can run it straight from the bat +
-the orange is NOT fused, I can run from bat + thru fuse to connector
-I was going to use the same gauge wire from the connectors to bat +, not 4awg

?-I do not know the gauge of the orange wire, I'm sure I'll find out when I hook it up, what fuse amperage do you recommend for the orange wire?

 

Ok, I just read up on this "big three" thing. Dont touch the orange wire. It has nothing to do with it. All you need to do is add 3 4ga wires. I would not eliminate this link unless it is bad. Basically leave everything stock then add one 4ga wire from the alt to the positive battery terminal then one from the alt bracket to the chassis, then one from the neg battery terminal to chassis.

The orange wire is fused by that fuseable link. That link is just a junction with one input and 2 outputs. If you are bent on replacing it you will have to run a NEW 12v wire to that orange wire then add an appropriate sized fuse probably around 40A. But if it aint broke......

 

The more I research, the more I read, the more I am beginning think you are right about if it ain't fixed don't break it.

Adding a 4awg wire in addition to the alt wire already there sounds simple. The plan was to eliminate the fuse link, run one 4g and fuse to the alt, and 2 14g or whatever and fuse to the 2 plugs. I must have missed the alt bracket to chassis, hadn't planned on doing that. I figured the 4g from bat - to chassis and 4g from block to chassis would have sufficed. Plus the bat - cable (which runs to the block) would be either 2 or 1 g (as would the bat +)

So long as my plan won't start a fire, I've read enough to hope that the bigger wires will help the flow of electricity. I almost with I hadn't read about B3, this has been a headache.

 

Just keep it simple. Add as little as possible. All your ground wires should be the same as the battery ground. The additional 4ga from the alt is fine. Make sure where ever you attach the grounds you scrub all the paint down to bare metal and use some sort of dielectric grease to cover them.