i have never known what these relays are for on any of the fbodys i've ever had and really never took the time to figure it out. so if sombody knows what they are or what they do and weather or not i need them that would be a big help. i'm running a carbed 350 w/ a 700r4 so if that means anything i duno but i'd love to eliminate alot of wiring i dont need like the a/c stuff also, i am goin to try and retain the heat and buy that box from hawks for the heat only stuff. any help would be very much apreciated. thank you.

adam

 

Unplug them and see what screws up.

 

haha well as much of a good idea that is the motor is outta the car at the moment and i was wanting to address some of the wiring issues b4 i put it back in order to clean up the engin bay some. i mean do i really need the computer and stuff w/ having a carb car what purpose is it really serving me?

 

Don't hastenly yank all the wiring out yet - tuck it away for now. I swapped from TBI to carb, and leaving the ECM wires in tact is a blessing - It's an almost unlimited supply of wires from inside the cabin to the engine bay an exterior. I've used them for fog lights, electric choke, independant fan operation, TCC lockups, and all kinds of stuff. It's much easier utilizing what's already there, instead of drilling holes in the firewall to get wires from inside to outside. For high use applications (like foglights and fans), I use the existing wiring just for switches and power leads to the outside, to power up relays to run the high amps. 3 years later, I'm still making use of these wires. Cleaning up the bay is fine - just leave the ECM wiring on the pass side so you can later amke use of it.

 

so the verdict is i dont need the computer? i was lookin at it a few min ago and cant see where i will serve any purpose for what im runnin at this point and if i do a fulie motor that harness wont work anyway. and if my asumption is correct all the wiring from the driver side of the car should run everythign i have. other question i had was how the gauges operate weather through the comp or not cuz i can always change out gauges too, dont really wanna cuz i'm a little partial to the factory ones but ya just curious. is there anything else i'm missing?

 

No - you don't need the ECM. Guages are run independant of the ECM, so they will all work fine. The tach has to be connected to your HEI distributor - requires cutting off the OEM distributor plug and attaching the wires to your new distributor.

My suggestion was to remove the ECM, but leave the wiring harness on the pass side in tact - then you have alot of wires to utilize that already run from in-cabin to under-hood.

IF you're using the in-tank fuel pump, you'll need a return-style fuel pressure regulator like the Mallory 4309 to bring the pressure down to carb needs. Only other thing is a TCC lockup kit IF you have an automatic with lockup capabilities.

 

ok i'm puttin a 700r4 in and theres a molex plug on the tranny i couldnt figure out what it was for would that be a lock up connection? and the motor i'm runnin has a mechanical fuel pump on it so i dont know if the nimrod took out the electric pump in the tank or whats goin on there.

 

The plug you mention - should be on the driver side - that's the coputer control for the tranny. There is a tech article on TCC lockups and how to rig via vacuum or a switch instead of computer control. I rebuilt my tranny when I went carb, so I also installed a TCC lockup kit while I had it out.

On the fuel pump - you may ask on the carb board - I'm not sure, but I think some years that had factory carb may have had an electrical pump in the tank as well as a mechanical on the block. The main point is you need fuel, but you only need 4-7 psi for a carb - the later model FI systems made way more than 7psi, and they need restricted with a return-style regulator like the Mallory 4309.

 

There's a TCC Lockup stickie in the carb forum also

 

ok wow, i do really apreciate all your help. that plug is on the drivers side, does that tcc lock up deal plug right into that and then i mount it someplace on like the firewall or somthin? and this car is a factory 4bbl car i looked up all the codes in the glove box and found out alot about my car w/ thoes so i do know it was the 155hp 305 so theres obvious reasons why they changed motors but in the processes they changed the the tranny to a th350, why you ask, i'm still tryin to figure that out my self since the th350 isnt just a drop in a go swap on our cars but i think i've got it fixed to a point i can put the 700 in, i will read that sticky too i was on the carb forum the other day and didnt even know to look for it but i'll deff go reading through it. w/ that do i need a lock up converter too? cuz i'm gonna need a 2000 stall for the cam i'm running. again thanks guys for all your help. ur savin my life at this point haha.

 

The lockup kit I got had new solenoids that installed in the tranny, along with new wiring. There may be a way to lock up the TC with a simple switch - it should be in the sticky. I have mine set with a manual switch, as well as a vacuum switch, so that it'll lock on it's own on the highway, but I can lock it manually whenever I desire. And I'm glad I rigged it this way - I'm having a hard time finding a replacement vacuum switch and right now it only locks when I do it manually (I broke the very small vacuum switch that came with my kit).

I installed a torque converter from an S-10 V6 pickup when I did mine - in the 700R4 with the 350 it's about 2300 rpm. A search for S-10 converter should get you the right year/number for one - got it at GMpartsdirect.com.

 

right on well then whats the factory stall on the 88 iroc converters cuz i got the stock one but my cams rpm ranges from 1500-6000 or so and i was always told get a converter thats at least 500rpms more then the lowest advertised rpm of the cam so i was thinkin thats 2000 but if the factory s10 one is 2300 then what would the factory 88iroc be? if it works i'll just run it and save myself about 200+ bucks and then that way i could deff afford the lock up kit. i duno tho i guess if nothin else an s10 converter is gonna be cheaper then an aftermarket stall. and do i need a lock up converter or are they all lock up converters?

 

Stock on the RS were about 1300, not much if any different on the IROC. The S10 converter stalls at less on the S10, but in our cars it stalls higher - so it makes a nice cheap alternative to aftermarket. The S10 converter should be lockup - cause the one you get is a later year model, but I don't remember from what year.

 

ok right on so it'll be from a 94 and up then i assume. i was also goin over the tcc controlers and i was wondering how high of a stall is concidered a high stall and which one would be recomended for my aplication? also just a tid bit of fun info, i did my engin wiring harness and here is how it came out. i have a little brown and white wire that i'm not sure what to do w/ if i need to do anything w/ it but ya anyways. the last one is the rats nest that was under the hood. some days i just love carbed cars.