I haven't found a thread that really describes the pros and cons of this product... I feel that re-distributing 40-50lbs of weight from the nose to the rear wheels is very significant... Also removes weight by removing the spare and adding more weight over the rear wheels...

To start, I know of two kits that exist for our cars...

1) http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/82...cationkit.aspx

This BMR relocation kit seems like a good quality product... Anyone have feedback on this one? It says no welding required and it just bolts in.

2) http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/ta...cationkit.aspx

This Tayor kit is the other one... Feedback?

PROS:
-Better weight distribution (handling + traction)
-Remove total weight from the car by removing the spare tire
-Clears out space behind the front headlight (on camaros)
-Easy installation as it apparently just bolts right in

CONS:
-Removes ability to carry spare in the trunk.. (not so bad if you have a run-on-flat tire equipped vehicle)
-Having to run wires all the way to the back of the car which can be risky for a fire hazard or heat? (anynoe wanna chime in on this one..?)
-Harder to get to if you need to boost your car
-Potentially dangerous to your health if usnig wet cell battery. So you need to buy a new cry cell battery which adds to the cost (if you don't already have one...)

Anyone feel free to add to here or if anyone has done this job... I think this would be great for weight distribution for better handling and traction! Also, lots of modern sports car like BMW's carry their battery in the rear of the car so I've heard..

Later
-Marc

well i couldnt see it being a problem if you have an AC delco maintenance free battery, (stock GM) seeing as most of the new GM line of cars keeps the battery under back seat. what I would do is actually remove that card board crap box in the back and make it fit in there so if you ever need a jump just open the compartment door. lets you keep your spare as well so you have equal wight over both rear wheels.

First, a battery doesnt weigh 50lbs

Next, youll need to run a sealed and vented box to prevent the vapors from hanging around in the inside. These boxes are generally larger than what will fit in either side of the rear quarters

Fire hazard risk will go away with any sort of preventive thinking when you install it. Wrap the cables in loom to prevent chaffing through, secure the cables with the correct straps to prevent pinching or unwanted grounding etc

How does boosting your car have any effect on the battery system?

I thought you could use dry cell batteries inside the passenger compartment with no risk to health? I also understood the optima red top fit perfectly in the box... can't remember where i read that?

Okay so fire hazard will be a non-issue with a proper installation..

By boosting, I meant, if you need to jump start the car, i dunno we call that bosting a car around here?

Does anyone have any feedback on this? Did it make the car handle better? Did you gain traction? Did the front of your car sit higher?

Thanks,
-Marc

its not enough to change things.

I know my battery weights atleast 35lbs... probably more.... 35lbs of weght distribution to the rear, and 35 less from the front is substantial... plus the fact that we remove the spare and jack from the rear so the car's total weight drops a good 30lbs... AND if i add a lighter weight battery (not super light but say, those 20lbs Odyssey ones) then we're talking a good 40lbs weight loss and added weight distribution... I think that's substantial for a 90$ kit.. (plus added cost of battery if needed).. Another thing... How is fitment with the BMR kit? Do batteries just bolt up in there?

I'm in the middle of a battery relocation project and I'm having an issue finding a good ground. I believe the stock ground cable attached to the front of the engine and was only a few feet long. I bolted my negative battery cable to the inner fender support and it's not doing the trick. Anyone know where there is a good location for grounding?

Thanks! I was hoping I wouldn't need to run another long cable down to the engine compartment. Yeesh. well, go to do it right. Thanks again.

I checked out your mods and pics. How'd you determine the engine output at the crank? Also, you have a pretty girl! I'm not talking about the Camaro.

did you take all of the coating/paint/finish off of the peice you were trying to use, where you are connecting? also, you may want to make sure the screw or bolt holding the peice on isnt coated or anything.

When you move the battery to the trunk, ground the battery to the rear subframe structur. Up front, ground the engine to the front subframe structure....

Hey 1987camaroz28: I did a dyno run about 2 years ago, but I had a couple of codes and problems with the engine, now it runs a TON better and it's definitely higher than that right now, but I still go with the numbers I know. I got the amount of wheel horsepower (i have the graph) and I think what the guy did (since I asked him what it was at the crank) was that he multiplied it by 15 or 20% (can't remember).. He also said that was the new method of measuring, SAE or something or other, he said if i compare it to my car's dyno numbers stock with the way they measured it back in 86 (195hp at the crank.. akkkkk!) Then the comparison would be 271hp and 354tq... I had roughly 216hp at the wheels and i can't remember the torque ... I am going again this year with a friend to re-dyno the car! Can't wait to see the updated numbers!