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89 tach reads 1000 rpms high at 6000 but is close at idle?

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Old 03-03-2010, 11:37 AM
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 waiting on afr 195 comps
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
89 tach reads 1000 rpms high at 6000 but is close at idle?

I have an 89 iroc z and it has a t56 so my tach is kinda important. I have read through the 91-92 tach fix threads but I need to know how to fix an 89. The tach seems to read close at idle but sweeps pretty fast through the rpms. The 91-92 fix thread mensions a capacitor fix but I cant find and info on the earlier tachs. I'd like to know if I can do the resistor method or if there is something specific I need to adrress about 89 model.
Old 03-03-2010, 12:00 PM
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Get The Tach Back

The problem is in the circuit inside the dash that moves the pointer.

It’s contained on a small plug-in PCB or integrated in the main board.

On the PCB you’ll see a resistor chip.

Desolder pins 4 & 10.

Use a 500K potentiometer.

Solder it across traces 4 & 10.

Move the potentiometer to half way.

Start the engine and compare the tach reading with a test equipment quality tach.

Dial it in, unsolder the potentiometer, measure it and install a matching resistor.


Happy Racing!


If People Drove Any Slower They’d Be Going Backwards

When you see fog or “running” lights on in good weather beware. WLow performance driver ahead.

How bout those nitwits too scared to drive without headlights in the daytime and the nitwits that need headlights for a little rain

.
.

Old 03-03-2010, 12:09 PM
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Re: Get The Tach Back

So you're saying its the same fix as the 91-92 tachs
Old 03-06-2010, 05:32 PM
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Re: Get The Tach Back

can someone verify this please
Old 03-09-2010, 08:52 AM
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Re: Get The Tach Back

Originally Posted by NINÅ
The problem is in the circuit inside the dash that moves the pointer.


It’s contained on a small plug-in PCB or integrated in the main board.

On the PCB you’ll see a resistor chip.

Desolder pins 4 & 10.

Use a 500K potentiometer.

Solder it across traces 4 & 10.

Move the potentiometer to half way.

Start the engine and compare the tach reading with a test equipment quality tach.

Dial it in, unsolder the potentiometer, measure it and install a matching resistor.


Happy Racing!

If People Drove Any Slower They’d Be Going Backwards

When you see fog or “running” lights on in good weather beware. WLow performance driver ahead.

How bout those nitwits too scared to drive without headlights in the daytime and the nitwits that need headlights for a little rain
Im having the same problem, but why not leave the potentiometer in once you have got your tach to read correctly?
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