My car wont start its a 1990 TBI I went out to start it I get power to everything and when I turn key to start I get nothing not even a click. But everything still has power but my radio when I turn the key any help please and thank you.

 

Clutch switch, press the pedal down harder, or adjust it.

 

It was pressed to the floor this the first time it has happened is there anything else that could be causing it.

 

 

1990 means a VATS system too - do you have a spare VATS key to try?

The ignition lock cylinder may have gotten the VATS contacts inside worn down over the years. The contacts have tiny springs behind them to push the contact out and make contact with the pellet on the key - and often they wear out. Sometimes you can look inside the lock, while slowly inserting the key, and see if the contacts are catching the pellet sides when the key is inserted.

Check the tech articles from the main page and read up about the VATS and/or PASSKEY sections and how to check/disable it. If you follow the procedure to install the correct resistor and it works, then you'll know it was VATS - you can then leave it disabled and start using $2 keys instead of $25 keys, or you can take the resistor back out and get a replacement lock cylinder and have the new keys cut for the new lock, but using the resistance from the old key.

Good Luck - and let us know what you find!

 

I do not have a spare VATS key but I went out today and it clicked so the starter was getting the signal to start but it just clicked and a couple trys later it went back to nothing at all again I was looking at my key and the chip in the key looks a tad bit torn up could that be my problem and if it is how can I go on fixing it.

 

If it clicked, it should of turned over, so it must be the battery.

If it was still VATS, it wouldn't click.

 

I do need a new battery but it went back to just doing nothing after it clicked a few times. I had it on a jumper I dont know if maybe the VATS keys is just kicking in and out. The starter is newer and all I am confused on what to look at next its been having its days where it clicks a few times and then I try to start it again and it starts. But since it clicks then just goes to nothing I am confused. I looked threw my service manual to look at whats going on and could not find anything.

 

OK - let's test the starter/battery...

Get a 3ft chunk of wire, decent guage. With key turned to ON - Reach down to the starter, touch one end of wire to where the purple wire connects to starter (it'll be the ONLY wire on that connector), then bump the other end to battery (positive).

If car starts, then battery is good, starter is good, VATS is good - that would lead us to Neutral Safety Switch or Starter Enable Relay. NSS is in center console (maybe above clutch pedal if manual car). Starter Enable Relay is behind driver side kick panel, usually behind the black goo where the hood release is located. Starter Enable relay is about $8 at NAPA, NSS is about $30.

See if any of that gets you anywhere.

 

It used up all the juice it had for those few clicks and was done.

swap a batter from another car into it.

 

By a decent gauge of wire what do you mean by that. And I even hooked it up to a jumper and had 16 volts constant and it still had nothing.
I do have a remote starter I can hook up to the starter if that will work.

 

If the battery is that low, they don't often come back up and a jumper box won't do anything.

swap a diff battery in for a test, 5 min at the most.

 

I do not have a extra battery the only one I have is a dual side post instead of top and side and I am not able to hook it up. The only other one I have is shot also.

 

You can buy adapters for around $3 each to solve that.

A good idea from now on, only buy a battery with both types of post, side n top, then your never without.

Cause if it clicked, its not VAT's though VAT's can be a PITA it would of never clicked, your battery is stoned dead.

Could try jumping with another car, have the other car running and idle it up for more juice, but if the battery is that dead, that often won't work either.

 

I can try it but if it doesnt work what else should I try after that.

 

not much else but get a battery, if you had a friend you could just hold the post aginst the battery you got that you can use to rule it out.

 

Sorry - not good with guages - as close to 1/4 in COPPER as you can get.

I agree that if the battery is weak, no jumper box or jumping from another car/battery will help. Usually have a hard time jumping a car when the bad battery does the rapid "click click click" thing, let alone one that has a hard time even clicking once.

When you get a fresh battery connected, if still have issues, then try the pos batt term to purple starter wire to test for bad starter - if a good batt makes the starter crank, but the key doesn't, then look into starter enable relay or NSS.

 

I am going to use my hand held remote starter to test the starter is just a big PITA for me since I have to lift the car to get to the starter since my headers dont allow me to put my arm behind and get to the starter and if that works I may just hook up a switch to the starter acting as a remote starter from the inside for now tell I figure out the whole problem since I just need it to work for a couple years since I plan on putting a new carbed engine in and plan on doing all new wiring and everything. Would that be a good or bad idea to hook a switch to my starter to start it up.

 

It is my VATS system I checked the starter and also the battery there both working good and fine now my security light is now on. Can some one please explain to bypass it and I have read the tech article I want it in more simple words and steps.

 

I should mention I got the car started with my handheld starter but it wouldent continue to run it would cut out and die even if I tried to rev it up to keep it going.