jpearsall187

OK, so I just installed a python 460 alarm and I hooked up the 200 mA negative output channel 2 wire to the brown wire that runs from the hatch release switch in the console to the relay. No joy. Hatch doesn't open when triggered from the remote but opens with the console switch. Tried splicing it into the other wires (black, brown, orange), still nothing. Anyone have any suggestions. What is the orange wire, as I removed most of the electric from the trunk area (no pulldown motor, or interior lights), because the orange wire is not connected to anything in the trunk.

Thanks

jpearsall187

Also, just to add, I checked the channel 2 wire coming from the alarm with a voltmeter and it is providing voltage when the auxiliary button on the remote is pressed.

Zepher

iTrader: (1)

you may need a relay. I put a Viper in my car last weekend and I will be adding the trunk release to channel 2 as well. it's just been so hot outside this past week to work on the car.
Will also be adding the Domelight Supervision circuit as well, which requires a relay too.

I used this as my reference for my install,
http://www.modifiedlife.com/1988-pon...ing-schematic/

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Year and model of the car?

jpearsall187

Its a 1988 camaro. So, first I installed an SPDT relay, but still no go. I did some diagnostics and here is what I found. So the alarm negative trigger, as far as I understand, provides ground when activated, activating the relay and providing power to the hatch solenoid. However, when I use a multimeter, connect the positive probe to a 12 volt constant wire, connect the negative probe to the alarm negative trigger wire, and hit the auxiliary button on the alarm remote, I was only getting 10.75 volts. I messed with where I grounded the alarm a little, did the same thing again, and now it is up to 11 volts. Could it be that i dont have the best ground and this won't let the relay activate? Its just strange because the rest of the alarm options (keyless entry, siren, etc.) all work fine.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Well first you need to find the hatch release relay. On 87 Camaros it's under the forward part of the console, could be the same on an 88. If your alarm's trigger is a 12v+ signal, tap it into the brown wire. Under normal conditions, pressing the button on the console puts 12v+ to the brown wire to pop the trunk. If that doesn't do it, it's probably because your alarm doesn't put out enough voltage to pop the 24 year old solenoid. You might need to wire up a relay to boost the power. If you did that you could also connect the output of the relay (still 12v+) to the black wire.

Also keep in mind, the stock hatch release doesn't work unless the auto transmission is in park or neutral, or if it's a 5spd the E-brake needs to be pulled. So if you're using the brown wire, it'll only pop under those conditions. If you wire a new relay to the black wire, it'll be able to open any time.

jpearsall187

OK, so here is what else I found. When I press the aux button on the alarm remote, the channel 2 output wire is supposed to provide an active ground, allowing 12 volts to pass through the relay activating it. However, when I hook up a voltmeter to a 12 volt constant and the negative end to the actual point where the channel 2 output wire is attached to the alarm control unit, the max I get when I press the auxiliary switch is 11.5 volts. Could the control unit be bad? The control unit itself seems to be grounded properly because I tested the positive and ground to it and I get 12 volts.

jpearsall187

Ok, so it seems that the starter kill relay is bad, as I get no continuity between 85 and 86 on the relay. Would this possibly cause the problems above with not having a full 12 volts being provided when I activate the channel 2 negative output? Anyone? Please

Drew

iTrader: (58)

I can tell you what signal your car needs to respond to your alarm, but I can't tell you if your alarm is working right. Is there a support 1-800-number in the instructions?

jpearsall187

There is no 800 number in the manual. The alarm is a python, made by directed electronics and they do not give any number in their paperwork or anywhere on their website

jpearsall187

I fixed the starter kill problem. Wrong wiring. However, the hatch release is proving to be a PIA. A nine volt battery switches the relay. I hook up constant 12 v to pin 85 and to pin 87, and to pin 30 I hook up the black wire that goes out to the hatch release solenoid. If I ground pin 86 to the chassis, the relay clicks and hatch opens. If I hook up the 20 mA negative channel 2 output to pin 86 and press auxiliary to ground it, I get anywhere from 10.75 to 11.51 volts, but the relay won't click and open the hatch. I think I'm gonna give up and forgo my thoughts of a remote hatch release unless anyone has any suggestions. I called Directed Electronics and this has baffled them too.

jpearsall187

In the last posting it should be 200 mA negative channel 2 output

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Well if manually grounding the relay pops the hatch, and the alarm connected to the same pin doesn't, the alarm isn't getting the job done.