the ones in the black circle box to go the alternator and positive battery terminal, on the other end its a black and red wire, i think it runs the ecm, fuel pump relay, MAF. any ideas on where they go, or do i ground the black one and run the red to the positive? the 2 orange wires arent connected to anything, havent removed them yet though.

 

Going to sleep man. Got to work at 4 am then I go to school. But rest assured. Tomorrow when I get out of class, ill whip out the Haynes wiring diagram to help you out. Just send me a PM at around 3:30 pm (pacific time) so that my blackberry can alert me. Peace bro.

 

yeah will do. trying to figure out this fuel pump not priming issue. =p and the only thing i did was dc the battery and put the correct fuses in.

 

Wiring diags:
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=19

Fuel pump troubleshooter:
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=35

Save this link in your favs - lots of great info here:
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=2

 

well cleaned it up today, the wire that controls the ecm and maf, fuel pump ect, was disconnected to the power. starts up better then ever. at idle how long should it take to get to 160F? trying to figure out the adjustable fan controller. cant rely on my gauge cause its faulty.

 

if your temp gauge dont work, the best thing to do is go to airconditioning company or store, buy a laser thermometer, shoot the thermostat housing every minute to verify the temp, then return the laser thermostat to get your money back. Thats what I did with a digital caliper. I used it and returned it. As for how long it takes, you can never be too sure. The risks are too high. Its like knowing that you are low on gas and the fuel gauge dont work. But you still want to drive 10 more miles without knowing exactly how much gas remains for the trip.

 

yeah, i installed the temp sender, now the gauge moves.. it u tap the plastic housing. i think i got laser themometer here somewhere

 

I used a candy thermometer from the dollar store (NOT a regular thermometer, candy making thermo goes to hi temps, reg thermometer will bust). Left rad cap opened, and checked temp in the rad every minute or so until it got up, then set adjustment for the fan.

 

fan seems to kinda be uneven, by that.. meaning not super easy to spin, kinda stiff in spots. could that make it not kick in as well. i hot wired it to the batter and it works like a charm. but its probably getting up there in age..

 

sounds like the fan has rust or corrosion inside the copper coils/brushes area. If its the original fan, it may need replacement. But really its up to you.

 

yeah i was thinking about it. dont really have much of a choice. down here in the city is all stop and go and gets way to hot, or overheats.

 

Hell. I'm looking for a dual fan setup. I don't have a 305 in my 86. I dropped in a 350 power plant. The summers here in the Imperial Valley in Southern Cali are CRAZY! The normal day in July and August are around 110* with 95* nights. Its horrible man. Then the surrounding land is nothing but crop fields so that brings in 85% humidity. My IROC's coolant fan turns on at 190* (EPROM programmed) and it has a 180* thermostat. So normal temps are around 190 - 200*. During the summer, my temps jump all the way up to 230*. My single fan just doesn't cut it.

 

should i go with a 180*? im fairly sure mines a 195* which doesnt help

 

if the fan turn on is at 160, then get a 160 thermostat. But that is a confusing thing though. I run a 180* thermostat but my fan is programmed to turn on at 190* and turn off at 182*

 

my adjustable fan control comes pre set at 160, but havent had it come on yet. i need to leave my rad cap off to see if it even opens, if it opens and my fans not on ill get a new fan motor