I have an 82 camaro with some sort of an electrical draw. I replaced the alternator the other day, got the battery fully charged, and the car started up fine. The next day, the car didn't start at all, and there was absolutely no power. I've read up on it a bit and have learned about the amp meter checking method where you hook it up, and take out each fuse. Can anyone give me a better idea of how to do this? Also, is there any known or obvious cause for such a crucial electrical draw (full battery drained overnight..)? Thanks so much!
-Josh

 

ttt

 

ttt plz helpp

 

alarm, radio, any thing after market? and have you checked the battery water/acid if checkable, if low fill using bottled water like deer park etc. Has been a problem for us before with low water. So if water levels are good charge batt. Unplug it for the time span of sitting and reconnect it and yeah if dead trade the battery at a junkyard for probably $15-20 get a almost brand new one if that does work get a amp meter or something like that and pull a fuse and if like a voltage meter thing stick a sharpish point on each contact and write down each current & figure our what's acceptable

Ps keys off and out and the lights no use checking since door is open or just press the door switch for it and when ever messing with the battery have baking soda near by for acid/water mix spills and i know its hard and I useally don't but ware safety glass batterys can explode especially when charging and they give off dangerous gas I've read in popsic or popmec a guy in there had one go poof sorry for safety class ^ or anything u already know

 

Thanks so much for the help! Lotta helpful info there. Much appreciated

 

When I tracked down my battery drain this is the method I used...

1. Get a license plate light pigtail replacement and bulb to fit from auto store - may cost 5 or 6 bucks all together.

2. Disconnect your negative battery cable and put one wire from the light on the negative battery post and connect the other wire to the negative battery cable. Now make sure you have everything turned off and since you will have the hood up take the underhood light out (if you have one).

3. If everything is turned off the light should not be illuminated. If the light is illuminated there is a power draw somewhere.

4. Position the light so you can see it from the drivers seat and make sure you either close the door or push the courtesy light switch in while your pulling fuses.

5. Pull one fuse at a time until you see the light go out. If the light does not go out start pulling every connector until the light goes out. I liked this method because I could see the light and did not have to try and read a multimeter while pulling fuses. Once the light goes out you have an idea of what circuit or system is faulty!

Just don't give up until you find it... I owned my IROC for almost 1 year until I found out I had a bad ECM sending constant power to the IAC valve. I almost went insane trying to find the draw, but I found it, and when I did I think the whole neighborhood heard my battle cry of victory LOL.

If you have any more questions please don't hesitate to ask.

 

Yeah what about a wire tester but instead of algator clip use something else or hey how about this thing that comes with a pack of fuses my car came with it don't know if I would work though let me find a link to it

 

Now I have noooo idea if this would work but this mine was in a pack of fuses http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=32408_0_0_

 

Sorry to hijack this thread, but I'm having the exact same problem.

I hooked up a test light:


But after pulling out all the fuses the light still stays on. I also unhooked the hood light, the starter, the alternator, my after market audio amp, but still the light stays on.

Does anyone have any ideas? Is the test light I'm using OK? or do I need to use a bigger one?