Electronics Need help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?

hatch wiring

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 14, 2011 | 07:14 PM
  #1  
xsive79's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee
Car: 88 Formula
Engine: 5.7l 350
Transmission: Auto
hatch wiring

My hatch isnt moving anymore, it is stuck in the down position now and before was grabbing but not closing all the way, i pulled the plastic away form the back and was looking at the wires, does this whit wire need to go some where?

also has anyone else had this problem?

and now it is not cycling at all

Thoughts?
Attached Thumbnails hatch wiring-img_1156.jpg  
Reply
Old Jul 19, 2011 | 12:38 AM
  #2  
lonsal's Avatar
Moderator
25 Year Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Re: hatch wiring

Originally Posted by xsive79
My hatch isnt moving anymore, it is stuck in the down position now and before was grabbing but not closing all the way, i pulled the plastic away form the back and was looking at the wires, does this whit wire need to go some where?

also has anyone else had this problem?

and now it is not cycling at all

Thoughts?
The white wire with a small black connector ontheend is not connected to anything on the 1986-88 pull down units. GM began using it some time in the 1989 model year to turn on and off the rear hatch light. In that case it connected to a black with orange stripoe wire to provide a switched ground to the light. Yours has a manual switch for that light.

Now to address your problem. First unpulg the blue wire from the red with white stripe wire and test it for 12v. If it tests good, then it may simply be that you need to re-set the pull-down unit. Here's what may have happened. If the pull-down unit is stopped midway on the down cycle it will not cycle up until the unit completes the down cycle. This is done by reaching in with your finger or a screwdriver and pressing on the striker-sensing switch. The switch is mounted to the side of the latch facing the front of the car with a single 7mm hex-head screw. You'll see a small paddle that is pressed by the hatch hook when it latches into the latch. The pull-down unit should start when you press that switch. When it reaches the end of the down cycle you must hear a CLICK which is the sound of the reversing switch being tripped to end the down cycle. Release the striker-sensing switch and the unit will cycle up then CLICK again to end the up cycle. Your pull-down unit should now be re-set and ready to work properly again. If the guides are bad or the clear plastic motor housing is cracked it will cause a mis-alignment and cause these sort of problems you experienced.

Lon Salgren
Reply
Old Jul 19, 2011 | 10:28 AM
  #3  
xsive79's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee
Car: 88 Formula
Engine: 5.7l 350
Transmission: Auto
Re: hatch wiring

Took apart the pull down found out the plastic was cracked and stripped the gear, going to repace and see if that fixes everything. It was working great before this happened
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Street Lethal
Power Adders
634
Apr 30, 2019 12:14 PM
crt454
Interior Parts Wanted
10
Jun 23, 2017 02:25 PM
madsv1000
Interior Parts for Sale
1
Aug 20, 2015 06:45 AM
stalkier
Electronics
0
Aug 13, 2015 12:59 PM
3rdgenparts
Exterior Parts for Sale
0
Aug 8, 2015 11:48 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:53 AM.