I have an 89 IROC with the 5.7 and have been lurking here every now and again.

I've been having an intermittent no crank issue. I believe the issue is the VATS module. I know I have the 1.13 resistor in my key and when I check the resistance at the plug that goes into the pass key module I have the correct resistance. Even though my key reads correctly I have done the resistor key bypass with the correct resistor just to be safe.

I want to just go ahead and totally bypass the VATS system.

I've read all the threads I can find here and that leads me to some confusion...hopefully some of you can clear that confusion up.

There seems to be 2 schools of thought on how to jump the starter engage relay behind the drivers kick panel. One is to jump the two thick wires and the other is to ground the yellow and black wire.

Which is correct? Does not matter or does it depend on the model?

In addition I have read some folks say that jumping that relay is all that needs to be done on an 89 to totally bypass VATS? Is that correct? Does and 89 need the bypass module like the one from Baker Electronics to energize the injectors?

Thanks in advance.

 

VATS does 2 things ... 1) disables the starter via the starter enable relay you mention, and 2) disables the fuel injectors by not sending the correct pulse wave signal to the ECM.

So - bypassing the starter enable relay is only half the issue - the only way to satisfy both issues is with a box like you mentioned.

BUT - I wouldnt bother with a box - you have another issue somewhere. If you've done the resistor, then you've already bypassed the VATS. If the car EVER starts and runs, then your bypass is working correctly.

Your issue is with the ignition circuit, and the purple wire running to the starter. It may always get 12 volts, but might not ever get enough amps for the starter to do anything but "click" once.

I'd follow this diagnostic, and check the neutral safety switch and the ignition switch: http://www.tacreationsusa.com/images...s/dsc00693.JPG

Keep this in mind also:

I had issues with mine - turned out after 3 years of fighting it, and replacing everything and bypassing everything, that all along my issue was a bad connection between the NSS and it's connector. It would not stay connected entirely right - a 10cent zip tie solved my starting problem ... of course in the process I bought a new starter, ignition switch, and NSS - so it was an expensive lesson to learn.

Good luck

 

You may be correct that my occasional no crank issue is not VATS related. That is why I want to take VATS totally out of the loop. It seems to be the weakest link on these vehicles.

Plugging in the resistor does not bypass the VATS. All it does is make the VATS module think the correct key is in the switch. There could still be a problem with the rest of the VATS.

 

Jumping the two thick wires completely remove the relay from the stater circuit.
Is only there as a interrupt device; not a "true" relay supplying power direct from batt as in a reg installation so not required.

The other method retains the relay and makes it operate when starter engaged.Personally just leaving another item to possibly fail in the circuit

Check your starter enable relay colors

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