I could really use some info on this. Originally I had a 305 TBI, it ran good without a drain, but one day out of nowhere I noticed the car had a drain and would die or not have enough juice to crank (not completely dead) after 1-2 days.

The only thing I've done to it is installed aftermarket radio, installed a set of gauges on the pillar and put in fog lights, and I don't remember which of the changes I did before this started happening. (I don't even know if any of those changes would affect it anyway.)

I just swapped the 305 for a 350 carb. I was hoping with the swap that the battery drain would go away, but it's still draining from 1-2 days.

Last time I checked, the battery worked, the alternator works, I've disconnected the gauges, radio and fog lights but the problem is still there.

Any thoughts?

 

Check voltage output on the alternator, if its good do a voltage drop test on,the positivw cable, im banking on the,radio or the fog lights, take the cable off the battery and place one lead on the cable, one on the battery and check amps, minimal draws can add up to kill it quick

 

Ok thanks will try it out. What do I need to check out the voltage? A multimeter?

 

Correct, set to dc voltage and have a ball

 

will try and post updates of whats going on

 

dirty cig lighter sockets n power seats can put on a drain.

 

Ok I take a look at that too

 

What voltage should the alternator be putting out anyway?

 

had two bad shorts, one the power door lock button stuck "in", and after that the main harness to the engine shorted where it passes through the firewall.

 

Before we send this poor guy on a wild hunt lets see what his drain is and then he can idebtify its location using the fuse box.

B4c: 14.4 is the "magic number" it can vary up or down a slight amount depending on the age and condition of the alternator ie worn brushes etc etc

 

Wow that must of sucked to fix it.
Ill check the voltage at the alt this weekend if I get a chance
Thanks for all the help ill keep you guys posted on what's going on

 

Wow that must of sucked to fix it.
Ill check the voltage at the alt this weekend if I get a chance
Thanks for all the help ill keep you guys posted on what's going on

 

Ok, had time to check the car this weekend. I checked the wires and taped up and repaired any wires that looked messed up. I also checked the fuses under the dash and the ones further up next to the steering column. I also disconnected the positive cable from the battery and the car stays running.
I guess the alternator still works. Also, I uninstalled my radio, left the battery cables connected and the next day the car was dead.

Are there any other fuses that are around the car that I need to check?
Don't know what my next steps should be. What should I check?

 

Having brain lock on how you do it, but you use a multi meter to watch the battery drain and pull fuses one at a time till it stops.

member fuses in the nose on pass side for fuel pump if its FI.

 

Parasitic load test. Pull your fuses one by one and watch your meter youre pretty much stabbing in the dark with what you are doing.

Again forget the wild goose chases, pull your cable off put it your meter to dc amps and put one lead on the post and.the other on the cable, pull each fuse one by one until your original number drops. Do the test first, post your original number (control) and then test it after each fuse is pulled, if the number stays the same then put it back try the next one, repeat until it changes.

Unless you wanna keep trying your current method, thatll take a while tho, just a tip, when somone says try this.... Without seeing the car, theyre working off experience, maybe its that, but the best way to do it is to follow proper testing procedures and diagnose the issue instead of just trying what people tell you

 

Ok thank. I guess I need to buy a multi meter and try what blu side. Thanks guy

 

Had the battery tested and its bad

 

Just got a new battery and car starts right away. I had it connected for 24hs and the battery wasn't dead that's a good sign . I noticed when I start the car the volt meter on the car is between 8 and 12 for he first 45sec to 1min after it stays around 12 and goes to about half way on the gauge . When I turn on the lights,push the brakes and put it in drive it looks like it drops to a little below 12v .

So is that normal or is something wrong ?

Oh and when i disconnect the + cable the car stays running so I don't think the alternater
is bad but I think I'm going to get it check also.

 

I was reading this thread and thinking ," sounds like a weak battery to me"

Glad you got it fixed

 

Yea I just hope the battery doesn't die in like 3-4 days of it leaves me stuck in a parking lot after work. So will see how it goes for now

 

So 4 days later the car still starts without a problem . So I think I fixed it glad it was only the battery

 

But you should of checked it first of all, as most of us assume folks do the simple checks before asking for more help.........