lookin for help or opinions
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 347
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Car: 1985 Firebird S/E
Engine: SBC 350, mild cam Vortec heads
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 vette servo+shift kit
Axle/Gears: 3.73
lookin for help or opinions
have had charging issues all summer never got to enjoy my ride. Leaving for basic soon and want my car right before i leave so i can enjoy it when i get stationed. The car reads 14 volts when running now but any accessories will drop the voltage more so the headlights then any other but they all do it. I put a new ground form the back of the block to the firewall. I cleaned the ground from the battery to the fender. I put in 3 batteries this year (autozone 75 series) and 3 alternators (advanced) today i had the car tested on a real machine not at the zone. The alternator was sending back 108 amps which the mechanic said was good but the battery tested bad (3 months old) I don't want to sound like an *** at autozone could something be destroying the batteries or is it bad luck. One mechanic said sine i don't have a battery "lock" or "holder" that could be doing it or there is a bad "plate" in the battery. any advice before i go back to autozone?
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, VA
Car: 1985 Firebird S/E
Engine: SBC 350, mild cam Vortec heads
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 vette servo+shift kit
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: lookin for help or opinions
Bump anyone?
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, VA
Car: 1985 Firebird S/E
Engine: SBC 350, mild cam Vortec heads
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 vette servo+shift kit
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: lookin for help or opinions
Bump again
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 10
From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Alternative Troubleshooting
Using a voltmeter or test light (the type for testing for voltage, not a continuity tester) find out if the alternator wiring has the correct voltages.
The heavier red wire goes to the positive stud, and should have power at all times.
The thinner red wire goes to terminal S (the sensing circuit) and should have power at all times.
The brown wire goes to terminal F (the turn-on input) and should have power when the key is in the RUN position.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
How bout those too scared to drive without headlights in the daytime
and the ones that need headlights for a little rain
.
The heavier red wire goes to the positive stud, and should have power at all times.
The thinner red wire goes to terminal S (the sensing circuit) and should have power at all times.
The brown wire goes to terminal F (the turn-on input) and should have power when the key is in the RUN position.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
How bout those too scared to drive without headlights in the daytime
and the ones that need headlights for a little rain.
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 618
Likes: 12
From: Destin, Florida
Car: 91 Trans Am Convertible
Engine: LB9 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 5 SPD
Axle/Gears: Posi Rear
Re: lookin for help or opinions
Is your battery held down with a proper clamp? If not, it could be getting severely shaken when the car is driven and internally breaking apart. Try a gel battery if you don't mind laying out the $. They are better under severe vibration.
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