I have a random no start problem. The solenoid will click but it will not turn over. Go under the car and jump the terminals and it will turn, and then the key will work again for "X" amount of times

This has happened on 3 starters, the stock one and 2 Summit High Torquw mini starters. All of it has happend with in 4 months but thats only 10 to 15 days driving.

If it were a VATTS problem the starter wouldnt even click, and 3 bad starters however likely that could be I doubt thats the problem

Wires are being installed tight

Im at a loss so please

 

Would appear you have voltage drop ( bad wiring / connection/etc ) in the starter wiring to the solenoid so it doesn't have enough " grunt" to throw the solenoid out.

The fact it works fine when you apply 12V direct off the batt terminal shows a loss somewhere between Ign switch and the starter

 

I was talking about jumping the terminals on the starter itself, does the same still apply???

 

If it clicks but does not engage, sure sounds like the solenoid or starter is bad. have you tried tapping with a hammer when in no start state?
Or it could be that you are not getting a full 12 volts from the ignition switch. Could also be Starter enable module relay but if solenoid clicks, probably not.

 

And the large terminal on the starter gets it's power from where?

You say starter works when it gets full 12V so you have a problem with your wiring back to Ign switch.
Put a DVM on the purple wire at starter and yellow starter wire at switch and see what in line resistance (ohms) you have.
Should be close to zero.
Change to V scale , turn key to START; see what voltage you have between purple and ground at starter
Bet it is not 12V

 

Nope
When jumpered direct to 12V as he has done it still would not work if either were bad

 

Yeah but 3 starters bad?

Are you talking about a full 12v to the activate terminal of the starter?

Where is the starter module relay?

This just has me so stumped A screwdiver across the solenoid terminals will turn it over, then it will key start, sometimes a few times, none, or 20 times. I feel the solenoid is strong, when it "clicks" its very loud and solid sounding.

 

No i was just talking about jumping the terminals on the solenoid never running a jumper wire to the switch on the solenoid

I will have to check the voltage going to the purple wire

 

I know what you are talking about.
Using a screwdriver across the terminals is exactly the same as running a wire from batt POS terminal
direct to small terminal on starter.
FULL 12V VOLTS at solenoid

No drop in voltage from bad connections , dodgy wiring , worn contacts in relay or Ign switch , etc

That is why you know you have a problem with the in car wiring ; not the starters themselves

 

we may be having a breakdown in communication

this is the terminals I ran the screwdriver across to start it in a pinch



Sorry if im mis communicating with you


But I do believe now after talking to you there could be the problem with the purple wire somewhere

 

What? If starter has bad brushes, solenoid would of course click but starter not turn. Very common with older starters. If hit with hammer and then works starter needs replacement. (jars brushes) Contacts in solenoid could also be bad. would click on engagement but no power to starter then either. Just saying after 40 plus years in the business. 89 RS if you jump between large post on solenoid and small post to side of solenoid does it crank? You haven't yet ruled out the solenoid as being bad.

 

OK
When most on here say they
"jumped the starter terminals"
they are referring to jumpering top power terminal to the small (S) terminal so the solenoid operates as it should and starter actually works to start the engine ( if it is functioning correctly )

What you are doing ( bypassing the solenoid contacts ) only confirms that the motor rotates

Disregard all my previous comments ( although I find it doubtful to get 3 starters with a identical problem )

 

Same problem on three different starters?

 

Yes, I know it doesn't sound reasonable. One thing I have learned though is to rule out the basic stuff before jumping to the hard stuff. Not everyone can perform or understand the more complex systems of the vehicle. We do know that the starter itself will crank the car. But all he gets is a click of the solenoid if trying to start by the key. First test should always be, jump, as you said, positive terminal 12 volt to ignition terminal of starter, if it cranks, that rules out the solenoid. We now know the starter/solenoid is not the problem and we need to move further into the testing procedures. I also believe it is a problem elsewhere but skipping the basics is bad policy in my opinion.

 

Ok I got 12.7 v to both the power and to the switched on the solenoid.

My only thought is there is a weak spot in the battery cable that maybe be pinched or something and randomly not getting full contact.

This one is just so messed up. I do not understand what the problem could be

 

Then the starter should work unless it really is bad. One thought, is the motor properly grounded? No or bad engine ground could also cause this. Try running a jumper cable battery negative to starter. but I think you did say it cranked when jumpered it between two large posts see that may rule that out also.

 

I have a 4 gauge wire to ground the engine ...... I'll double check it

 

i have a 1989 iroc-z with a 305 standard. last year before i parked it, every so often it would not start. i put the key in push in clutch turn the key and nothing .. all the lights came on.. but no clicks or nothing. sometimes if i tried it for a bit. or just let it sit. it would b fine and start sometimes. i would give er the ol push start. i was wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to fix it or what the problem might be. thanks

 

Clutch interlock ...... Maybe Vats system if the security light does not come on. Maybe a bad solenoid , doubt its a dead spot in the starter since there is no clicks