Upgrading Alternator/Grounds in the V6
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Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro
Engine: 2.8L V6 MPFI
Transmission: 700R4
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Upgrading Alternator/Grounds in the V6
Going to buy these terminal bolt adapters and make a new alternator cable, junction cable, ground cables.
Just was wonder if it was ok to place the alternator cable directly onto the positive terminal bolt then just make a new cable and place it on top of the alternator cable and run it to the junction block.
Just was wonder if it was ok to place the alternator cable directly onto the positive terminal bolt then just make a new cable and place it on top of the alternator cable and run it to the junction block.
Last edited by XxXChrisGXxX; Sep 9, 2012 at 06:54 PM.
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
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Re: Upgrading Alternator/Grounds in the V6
on my twin turbo iroc , i ran an 8 gauge wire from the terminal on the alt to the battery connector , i also put a 4 gauge wire from the batt to the starter
by junction block i assume u mean down to the starter since thats were everything picks its power up from
by junction block i assume u mean down to the starter since thats were everything picks its power up from
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Re: Upgrading Alternator/Grounds in the V6
Yes, that's fine, I wire many of my cars in that same way.
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From: Connecticut
Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro
Engine: 2.8L V6 MPFI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt
Re: Upgrading Alternator/Grounds in the V6
I want to go from Alternator to pos battery terminal, then from the same post the alternator cable is on... a new cable to junction block. So the possitive battery terminal will have 2 separate wires on top of it one is the new alternator wire, then the other is the new junction block wire.
I don't know why they ran the wire from the alternator to the junction block in the first place really..
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From: Utah
Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
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Re: Upgrading Alternator/Grounds in the V6
ahhh ok my 2.8 car had the same thing , yeah its perfectly fine to wire it like that.
i like using 8gauge car audio amp cable to wire up the alt , just be aware the insulation on that wire isnt as resitant to heat as the factory stuff so u have to be carefull when u run it.
also dont get cheap battery connectors i.e the typpe with a strap that bolts down with 2 bolts onto the cable, pick up one of the gold plated car audio battery terminals , these have holes in them were u slip in the cable and tighten down a set screw to lock the cable in .these are much better
i always tin the ends of the cables with solder before putting them in and locking them down
i like using 8gauge car audio amp cable to wire up the alt , just be aware the insulation on that wire isnt as resitant to heat as the factory stuff so u have to be carefull when u run it.
also dont get cheap battery connectors i.e the typpe with a strap that bolts down with 2 bolts onto the cable, pick up one of the gold plated car audio battery terminals , these have holes in them were u slip in the cable and tighten down a set screw to lock the cable in .these are much better
i always tin the ends of the cables with solder before putting them in and locking them down
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From: Connecticut
Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro
Engine: 2.8L V6 MPFI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt
Re: Upgrading Alternator/Grounds in the V6
ahhh ok my 2.8 car had the same thing , yeah its perfectly fine to wire it like that.
i like using 8gauge car audio amp cable to wire up the alt , just be aware the insulation on that wire isnt as resitant to heat as the factory stuff so u have to be carefull when u run it.
also dont get cheap battery connectors i.e the typpe with a strap that bolts down with 2 bolts onto the cable, pick up one of the gold plated car audio battery terminals , these have holes in them were u slip in the cable and tighten down a set screw to lock the cable in .these are much better
i always tin the ends of the cables with solder before putting them in and locking them down
i like using 8gauge car audio amp cable to wire up the alt , just be aware the insulation on that wire isnt as resitant to heat as the factory stuff so u have to be carefull when u run it.
also dont get cheap battery connectors i.e the typpe with a strap that bolts down with 2 bolts onto the cable, pick up one of the gold plated car audio battery terminals , these have holes in them were u slip in the cable and tighten down a set screw to lock the cable in .these are much better
i always tin the ends of the cables with solder before putting them in and locking them down
I might snip the factory wiring off or just tape it to the battery cables.
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z
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Re: Upgrading Alternator/Grounds in the V6
When I removed the GM computer for the XFI, I ran into a problem that I couldn't figure out for 2 months. My car wasn't charging at all. Never even thought about it until it went to they dyno. I wired both terminals directly to the starter from the ALT.. by both (I mean the 2 + wires).. Was destroying the ALT's within about 3 seconds after startup.. Autozone was getting really pissed at me as I really used their warranty program.. I swapped almost 11 times in a 1 month period. I finally did a little more research and discovered that the 2nd + 12v wire uses the SES light as a resistance of around 333k and that is all I needed.. I did install a 333k ohm resistor in the wire circuit and it has worked perfect since. The other + 12v runs directly to the starter
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From: Connecticut
Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro
Engine: 2.8L V6 MPFI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt
Re: Upgrading Alternator/Grounds in the V6
When I removed the GM computer for the XFI, I ran into a problem that I couldn't figure out for 2 months. My car wasn't charging at all. Never even thought about it until it went to they dyno. I wired both terminals directly to the starter from the ALT.. by both (I mean the 2 + wires).. Was destroying the ALT's within about 3 seconds after startup.. Autozone was getting really pissed at me as I really used their warranty program.. I swapped almost 11 times in a 1 month period. I finally did a little more research and discovered that the 2nd + 12v wire uses the SES light as a resistance of around 333k and that is all I needed.. I did install a 333k ohm resistor in the wire circuit and it has worked perfect since. The other + 12v runs directly to the starter
Anyway, this is what I will be using...little neat thingy.
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Re: Upgrading Alternator/Grounds in the V6
I use a Rockford Fosgate battery cable bolt extender... May be a little cheaper than what you have there.
As for the wiring, since I have a whole lot of extra 8 gauge wire, I ran it between the battery and ground (negative cable, ground wire was shot), alternator and positive battery terminal, and body to engine block (actually, cylinder head, but who's keeping track?).
There really isn't any reason not to use a stock battery cable to the starter and you don't lose a power connection to the junction block (just don't connect the alternator to it again). Unfortunately, in my case, I need to find another junction block for the interior...
And your 87 should have 3 wires in the alternator connector and one on the screw terminal... Unless you're using a self-exciting regulator.
As for the wiring, since I have a whole lot of extra 8 gauge wire, I ran it between the battery and ground (negative cable, ground wire was shot), alternator and positive battery terminal, and body to engine block (actually, cylinder head, but who's keeping track?).
There really isn't any reason not to use a stock battery cable to the starter and you don't lose a power connection to the junction block (just don't connect the alternator to it again). Unfortunately, in my case, I need to find another junction block for the interior...
And your 87 should have 3 wires in the alternator connector and one on the screw terminal... Unless you're using a self-exciting regulator.
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Re: Upgrading Alternator/Grounds in the V6
The factory wiring on my diesel was 12ga. The wires burned and melted the plug a little.
That 12ga got replaced with 8ga.
If your battery in your car is in the OEM location 10ga should work fine.
If you relocated your battery, 8ga would be a better choice.
That 12ga got replaced with 8ga.
If your battery in your car is in the OEM location 10ga should work fine.
If you relocated your battery, 8ga would be a better choice.
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