I was wondering if someone could take a minute and educate me on the VATS (or PASS or whatever it is called) system on my car. I have an '89 GTA and the key that I got to the ignition does not appear to be a "VATS" key. I would like to fix this so it is original if possible. The previous owner must have bypassed this and I was hoping someone could tell me what to look for etc. to figure out what they have done. Thanks for any help.

This pic is what my key looks like, but it doesn't have the "chip" on it. I would like to get original keys. I tried to have my key duplicate at Wal-Mart but they couldn't do it.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

You would have to get a locksmith to work out what resistor ( key # ) you need for your car after you have removed whatever bypass the PO installed
May have installed resistors on the wiring under the column to the VATS unit ( most common way ) , might have even had VATS deleted on the tune in which cas there is not much you can do without spending $$$$

 

vetteoz Thanks for the redirect exactly what I needed.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...-i-bypass.html

 

tunedperformanc

What is the deal with that key I have; Is that an indication of bypass?

 

Yes if your key doesn't have the resister pellet in the key it was bypassed in one of the ways I mentioned in the link I posted on post #4

 

Thanks for redirect to the other thread. I pulled this off (pic below) yesterday not knowing what it was with the remote starter kit. Found it on driver's side under hush panel. This must be the bypass...I thought it was part of the remote starter kit.

 

Probably is , VATS bypass wouldn't have the adjusting screw shown
and if it was, removing it from your car would mean the engine wouldn't start

 

The ignition box is off to msd for repair, so not sure about start issue. I will update post when I find out. Looks just like the ones you linked in other post ,except one extra wire and adjusting screw.

 

Vetteoz is correct that is a alarm shock sensor

 

thank god...I really did not want to hook this back up.

 

OK, I think I have found it this time, but would like a confirm from you guys..... Is this the bypass?

Thanks again guys, I do appreciate the help in deciphering this old car.

 

thats the po hack of a bypass

 

Obviously functional

What you need to do is meter the resistors the PO has installed to get the total resistance value so you can get
the correct value key blank cut.
( Compare the resistance to the key values in VATS link I posted )

Then you will have to locate the VATS wires up the column to the Ign barrel and hope the PO hasn't butchered
them so you can reconnect them in place of the resistors you show

 

From the bands (brown green red;1.5k) on the resistors it looks like a 3000 ohm (#9 key). I will double check this of course with ohmmeter. I cannot find any other wires that have been chopped off. I read in the other thread about two white wires coming down from the lock cylinder, but I did not see them anywhere.

Where then do the purple/yellow and white/black wires that are connected via resistors (see above image) go to; where are they supposed to end? I looked all over to see where they are to reconnect, but I simply cannot find them.

Did you guys think they bypassed VATS to install that remote starter kit?

Single or double-sided key?

Lastly, where can I find that passkey module and what do they look like....if it is gone and $300 I will leave this sleeping dog alone?

The steering wheel has been changed out to to a GRANT GT, so I need to pull it and see about the original radio wiring as well...another thread. Looking at the lock cylinder, it appears to be in very good condition for an 86k mile car and has a notch in it on which appears to accommodate the "pellet." Hopefully, they did not chop any inside the column as mentioned.

Would appreciate any more input you guys might have.

 

If you removed a remote starter from the car, they would of bypassed the key with the resistors so the car will remote start. If your car still cranks and starts, the vats is still working properly and hasnt been removed. The 2 wires with the resistors and the colors you listed go to the vats module. The vats module receives the resistance reading from the key or resistors and sends a signal to the starter enable relay to crank the engine and also sends a signal to the ecm to turn on the injectors. The vats system is basically a starter kill system. If you dont have the correct data from the vats module, the engine wont crank or start. If you are wanting to restore proper function/operation, you need a single edge cut key with the resistor pellets on both sides. You need to find the wires coming from the lock cylinder thru the column and hook them back up to the wires that have the resistors on them. Should of been a connector to connect them together. If I remember correctly, it will be 2 white wires in an orange sheath going thru the column

 

I dropped the column down by removing the plate that has 6 bolts. Then I removed the plastic loom for the wires coming out of the column and....that little plug fell out (see image below). There was a very small fragment of wire that had yellow insulation. I am assuming that is the remains of the plug coming from the lock cylinder. The wires to the lock cylinder are long gone though I am afraid. I used my zoom on the camera trying to see any remains and I could not see anything, other than that plug.

 

man, thats a terrible bypass job. chances are they did the bypass just so they could do the remote start.

 

I agree. When I get a chance I will pull the lock cylinder in the hope that I can solder on new wires.

 

I had to do the bypass a while back when the contacts inside the lock cylinder disengaged themselves. I planned on tearing the column apart to fix it, but have since gotten rid of the ECM all together so no need to worry with my VATS system anymore.

 

you should be careful in putting it in i actually had to remove mine after getting stranded a few times that wires that run up to the key are so small the break easily when moving the wheel up and down i put in a new cylinder and wires 2 months later cable was broke again

 

All the key-pellet-resistor-value kerfuffle aside, here's an overall summary:
1) key resistor value is read by VATS Module.
2) VATS module (about a $250 -$300 GM only part) turns off
the starter relay, and sends a 30hz 5v signal to the ECM.
3) If ECM doesn't see 30hz signal, will not fire injections system.

If it currently runs, without the resistor by-pass, then at the very
least, the ECM has been reprogrammed, or has a rube-goldberg oscillator
attached. So if $300 is the trip-wire, I'd start looking at the other end,
starting w/ the ECM.

Good luck.